Hakkasan @ Shanghai

Hakkasan opened in London and very soon got their first Michelin star. Shanghai followed suit and they got their star as well.

The Atmosphere

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Night view

Housed in the illustrious Bund 18 building, Hakkasan Shanghai is a stunning example of the brand’s striking design, alluring cuisine and exceptional mixology and sommelier skills, set against Shanghai’s most iconic view.

Hakkasan Shanghai offers three different dining spaces.

The Ling Ling Lounge, which sits in front of Shanghai’s impressive skyline, offers diners a relaxed lounge setting for cocktails or dinner. The main dining area, known as the “Cage”, is beautifully defined by latticed woodwork that creates an intimate inner dining space. And finally, in deference to Shanghai’s dining culture, there are five luxurious private dining rooms set around the periphery of the restaurant.

The Food

The menu, devised by Michelin-starred chef Tong Chee Hwee, has a strong Chinese identity which is underpinned by authenticity rather than traditionalism and uses locally sourced ingredients to create Hakkasan’s renowned signature dishes. Dishes such as cod with Champagne and Chinese honey, crispy duck salad and jasmine tea smoked Wagyu tenderloin have been artfully adapted to the palate of the resident clientele.

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魚子酱片皮鸭 Crispy duck with imperial caviar

魚子酱片皮鸭 Crispy duck with imperial caviar with pancakes and baby cucumber,
second course with a choice of XO sauce, black bean sauce or ginger and spring onion. This is a modern take on the classic Peking Duck. Instead of getting the whole duck, you get 8 equal rectangular pieces that were nicely stacked on a pancake skin with the usual condiment of leek, cucumber strip, and hoisin sauce. The highlight was the dab of caviar on the crispy skin. Very well presented as you can see in the picture, and delicious at each bite size mouthful.

Just like the traditional Peking duck, the rest of the duck meat were used in a second course that would be presented later. 8 pieces do not make a whole duck, one may argue, What they lack in quantity, they make up with quality.

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四式点心拼 Luxurious dim sum platter

四式点心拼 Luxurious dim sum platter, bird’s nest dumpling, lobster dumpling with caviar, abalone seafood dumpling, har gau with foie gras. I am sorry to say, I wasn’t impressed with this dim sum. The rice skin was made of the Teochew variety of clear rice skin so you can see the filling through the transparent skin.

The bird’s nest dumpling is a open-faced scallop dumpling with a teaspoonful of bird’s nest on top. The lobster dumpling was wrapped like a money back. Abalone seafood dumpling was dabbed with tobiko roe and transparent. The har gau with foie gras is orange in colour.  They came up cold, and the skin was chewy. While flavourful, one cannot forgive the fact that they came up cold.

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片皮鸭二吃蒙古酱 Second course with a choice of XO sauce

片皮鸭二吃蒙古酱 Second course with a choice of XO sauce. The second course of the 魚子酱片皮鸭 Crispy duck with imperial caviar, the  duck was battered and deep fried to form an inviting crust. It was so much better than the traditional serving using chopped duck meat and stir-fried and served on lettuce cups. I wasn’t sure of the sauce, it tasted like Maggi Garlic Chilli Sauce from a bottle.

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香槟汁焗黑鳕鱼 Roasted silver cod

香槟汁焗黑鳕鱼 Roasted silver cod with Champagne and honey. I would say this was the highlight of the evening. A well pan-fried piece of Norwegian cod with champagne foam sauce served on a bed of lily bulbs, sweet snaps, wood fungus and bak choy drizzled with a savoury soy sauce. On the foam was crisped conpoy that added texture and more taste to the foam. Really enjoyed the delicate balance and simple tastiness of the dish.

L2M-CN-HAKKA-9
梅菜酱四季豆

梅菜酱四季豆 Preserved vegetables with string beans. This is as home cooked as it can be. I would say that is the ultimate compliment for a Michelin-chef. Just like the cartoon, Gustav was reminded of his mom’s cooking with Renee’s ratatouille. This reminded of my family’s string beans with har bi hiam.

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香料焦糖苹果 Five Spice Caramel Apple

香料焦糖苹果配青苹果泥及姜味冰淇淋 Five Spice Caramel Apple, green apple purée, ginger ice cream, Royal Tokaji. A visual treat and delicious ending to a wonderful evening. The server poured lighted Hungarian Royal Tokaji, a sweet aperitif, over the caramelised apple slices that have been deck like a kitkat. The fire burned away the alcohol, leaving a sweet, smoky liquor taste to the apple strudel. The ginger ice cream cleared the palate nicely afterwards.

The Service

Hakkasan Shanghai is open for dinner every night, offers a late night dining menu on Friday and Saturday evenings, and a Hakka Bund weekend brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

I understood why they were one star, the service was not as good as some of the Michelin, the ambiance was ok, but tip top. The star was for the food.

Hakkasan Shanghai
Bund 18, 5/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Shanghai 200002
Tel : +86 21 6321 5888

http://hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-shanghai/

Date Visited : Jun 2018

Shanghai Michelin Guide 1* 2018

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