Travelogues

Tour of Chaozhou Part 2 West Lake 潮州遊記 2/3 潮州西湖

My journey continued to the western part of the old city, where there’s a park that was nicknamed the West Lake of Chaozhou.

Chaozhou West Lake is an artificial lake in ChaoAn District of Chaozhou City. The lake has suffered much in her history. It was destroyed during the Mongol invasion and rebuilt. It occupied quite a sizeable area but during the Ming dynasty, half of the lakes was filled with stones to make space for the construction of the city fortress wall. It was devastated when fighting between the Qing army and the rebels erupted in Chaozhou. During the Republic of China period, the warlord appropriated this lake as part of his private garden park.

潮州西湖公園,位於潮州古城西北面,為粵東著名古典園林,「西湖漁筏」為潮州八景之一。公園背倚葫蘆山,面臨西湖。原山地綿亙10余里,今面積26.7公頃(其中山地面積20公頃,水域面積6.7公頃),為天下36處西湖之一。潮州西湖古為韓江支流,曾名鰐魚潭、化象潭,唐時辟為放生池,宋稱大湖,後重浚,始名西湖。宋、元、明、清各代曾作護城河,時稱北壕及西壕。故有人把西湖的簡史概括為:始於唐、著於宋、毀於元、盛於明、蕪於清,民國不清不明,於今湖綠波平。

西湖石坊 West Lake Arch

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西湖石坊 West Lake Arch

The arch at the east entrance was built in 1989 and has a couplet written in Zhuan script. Excellent prose with proper structure and phrasing.

位於西湖虹橋東側前方,1989年建。多麼工整的對聯 – 湖對山、合對分、杭穎(州府)對村郭(鄉鎮)、水木對樓台、清華對金碧、大蘇(詩人)對小李(畫家)。

「  湖名合杭潁而三,水木清華,惜不令大蘇學士到此;
山勢分村郭之半,樓台金碧,還須倩小李將軍畫來。」

—— 清人蔣厚傳撰,南京藝術學院教授陳大羽重書

Sharing the name with Hangzhou and Yingzhou, the water is beautiful but alas the great poet Su Dongpo 蘇東坡 never came ;
Majestic mountain forms the background, the architecture is magnificent, yet it waits for the great artist Li Zhaodao 李昭道 to draw it.

Hanbi Pavilion 涵碧樓

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Hanbi Pavilion 涵碧樓 and Mid-Lake Pavilion 湖心亭

The Hanbi Pavilion (涵碧樓) was built in 1922. It is a small two floor Western-style building. During the Nanchang Uprising, it was used as the office for Zhou Enlai. During the split with the Kuomintang, he led a communist uprising in Nanchang to occupy the Choashan region. Zhou delivered his revolutionary speech to the masses at this pavilion when his forces occupied Chaoshan for 7 days. Unfortunately, the Kuomintang army retook control of the city and the reforms implemented by Zhou En Lai in the Chaoshan region only lasted for 7 days. Historians named this period as the `Chaoshan 7th day Red’ The large photo of Zhou En Lai was displayed at the museum hall in the pavilion.

位於潮州西湖公園內的「涵碧樓」(郭沫若書),始建於民國11年(1922),為洋式雙層小樓房。1925年10月第一次東徵時,國民革命軍第一軍軍長、東徵軍總指揮蔣介石曾住在潮州。1927年「八一」南昌起義軍轉戰入粵,周恩來、朱德、賀龍、葉挺、劉伯承、郭沫若等領導人,9月23日進人潮州,至30日撤退,前後共七日,史稱「潮州七日紅」。涵碧樓是當年起義部隊領導人周恩來等同志的辦公地點,樓前被稱為英雄樹的木棉樹據說已有400多年的樹齡,現涵碧樓已列為潮州愛國主義教育基地。當你夜幕下在湖邊的綠蔭道漫步時,倒映在湖水中的「涵碧樓」更加景色迷人。

湖心亭 Mid-Lake Pavilion

在涵碧樓東南面,新建的「湖心亭」是個六角三楹、外護雕欄的水中亭,有紅色回欄曲橋可通向湖岸。湖濱原有仙人「腳跡」的大石已無蹤影,但岸上重修建的涵碧樓卻依然聳立。近代歷史上國民革命軍兩次東徵,周恩來、周逸群等曾駐紮於此。據說1925年10月第一次東徵時,國民革命軍第一軍軍長、東徵軍總指揮蔣介石曾住在潮州,那時他以「左」派面目出現,時常早起來此,手捧中正劍,高聲朗讀孫中山總理遺囑。1927年「八一」南昌起義軍轉戰人粵,周恩來、朱德、賀龍、葉挺、劉伯承、郭沫若等領導人,9月23日進人潮州,至30日撤退,前後共七日,史稱「潮州七日紅」。樓前被稱為英雄樹的木棉據說已有400多年的樹齡。現涵碧樓已列為潮州愛國主義教育基地

壽安古廟 Peaceful Longevity Temple

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壽安古廟 Peaceful Longevity Temple

宋初,這地方原是州學地址,後州學搬進府城的金山,此處便成了「淨慧寺」。元朝淨慧寺被兵毀,明萬曆二十一年(1593年)重建,改名壽安寺。有一年海陽知縣高某懷疑自己的妾與寺中和尚私通,懷恨在心,便暗中把妾毒死,寄棺於寺中,並揚言棺木中有陪葬的珠寶。後又請一個死囚伏於寺中,把珠寶盜出置於寺僧人住所,知縣帶兵伏擊,率兵勇圍寺,逮捕了寺僧,判他們盜棺中珠寶罪,並毀了寺院,僅存一面牆。清代又有人靠著這面牆重建一個小廟,名為九天娘廟。民國13年(1924年)九天娘廟塌。而今,這裡成為遊人品嘗西湖魚及潮州菜的風味小吃館。

處女泉 Virgin Pool

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處女泉 Virgin Pool

沿著這菜館向北10多米處,便是西湖最為聞名的「處女泉」。處女泉泉洞如井,有三尺深,泉水極其清冽甘甜。在湖山開闢之前,因這裡原是個山坡,泉眼在山坡草叢中正如深居幽谷羞於見人的處子,故被稱為「處女泉」。潮人多喜歡品飲工夫茶,專雇人來此挑泉水,據說用此泉水烹茶特別甘淳溢香,別無雜味。過去潮人林大川在此品茶,有詩曰:「不知陸羽來到此,品作人間第幾泉?」更使處女泉名聲鵲起。現在園林職工在此經營潮州極品鳳凰單樅茶座,名茶配上最上等的泉水,使遊人在此品茗,既清神益思,又歇息舒暢,一邊欣賞西湖奇光異趣,一邊品賞潮州工夫茶藝,同時,又能聽到一些西湖的今古奇觀、軼聞傳說,令人流連忘返。

虹橋 Rainbow Bridge

從虹橋橫跨西湖,取其「飛渡如虹」之意。民國初年,軍閥洪兆麟,人稱「潮霸天」,把潮州人士募款修建的虹橋,改名為「洪橋」;霸佔西湖公園為私有,定為「洪園」;還在芙蓉池中竪起他的石像。這些企圖霸佔西湖,獨享美景的無恥行為,是為人民所不容許的,後來他的石像給人拆掉了。

抗戰陣亡將士紀念碑 Sino-Japanese War Memorial

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抗戰陣亡將士紀念碑 Sino-Japanese War Memorial

李公亭 Li Pavilion

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李公亭 Li Pavilion

西湖漁筏 Fisherman of West Lake

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西湖漁筏 View of the lake

The noise and chaos of hundreds of tour groups was soon forgotten once abord of the boats that glide you across West Lake. On the other side there were few tourists and we enjoy the lush garden paths and tranquil scenery.

潮州城西郊有西湖依徬在葫蘆山,山水相襯,風景十分秀麗。曾有一外地的遊客,游過西湖,感嘆說:「家鄉無此好湖山。」山上還有人題刻「湖山圖畫」,西湖景色之美由此可見。潮州西湖風景區由葫蘆山和西湖兩部份組成。自唐宋以來,直至今日,潮人習慣在工余休閒之時,到西湖品茶「扯談講古」,「西湖漁筏」的故事就在「講古」中流傳下來。西湖魚兼有溪魚、池魚之味美,「鮮而不腥」,故捕魚者一齊湧到湖邊來。那時,西湖湖面波平浪靜,蔥郁的樹木,別緻的亭閣倒映在湖里,片片漁筏出沒於湖光山色中。漁人拋網捕魚,滿載而歸後泊聚岸邊,晾網曬衣,飲酒談笑,充滿歡樂。

Date Visited : Sep 2019

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