Fine Dining

Bingsheng Mansion 炳胜公馆 @ Guangzhou

After eating at their Shenzhen branch, I have wanted to try Bingsheng in Guangzhou. Given the high standards of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou, it could only be better.

Bingsheng Mansion is the high-end brand for the Bingsheng Group of Cantonese restaurants. I have been to their Shenzhen branch under the Bingshen Taste brand, which is a mid-tier Cantonese brand for the group. I was very impressed with the quality of their roasts and the overall service then.

A solid wine cellar

Besides good food, Bingsheng’s flagship in Guangzhou pulled all the stops in providing a luxe version of Cantonese cuisine. This includes an extensive wine list with a sommelier to match. We had lunch and skipped this segment, but it was an impressive list of old wine with an impressive price to match.

Chic decor

The lift lobby was also decorated to match the dining experience upstairs, which consisted of mainly private rooms with only a couple of open halls. You dine in comfort and privacy.

The Meal

The meal is solid Cantonese cuisine. Cantonese cuisine calls for the fresh ingredients and the all kinds of cooking techniques that include stir-fry, steam, poach, blanch, stew, roast, etc. The finished product should retain the original flavours enhanced by the techniques.

凉拌海螺 Sea whelk in Chinese vinaigrette

凉拌海螺 Sea whelk in Chinese vinaigrette

Sea whelk in Chinese vinaigrette called for lightly blanched sea whelks to be dressed using a Chinese vinaigrette using Zhejiang vinegar, rice wine and sesame oil. A starter that was quite enjoyable.

淮山燕麦煮南瓜 Steamed mountain yam and pumpkin with oatmeal

淮山燕麦煮南瓜 Steamed mountain yam and pumpkin with oatmeal

Steamed mountain yam and pumpkin with oatmeal and grains, primarily barley, quinoa, corn and red beans. A very strange combination and it was rather sweet.

蜜汁蒸凤爪 Steamed chicken feet in honey glaze

蜜汁蒸凤爪 Steamed chicken feet in honey glaze

Despite the Michelin star, they still offer for lunch the Cantonese traditional dim sum’s 一盅两件 “one cup and two plate”, a metaphor for a cup of tea and two plates of snacks/dim sums. We ordered a few dim sum, including my favourite chicken feet.

公馆虾饺皇 Superior prawn dumpling

公馆虾饺皇 Superior prawn dumpling

Hargow (shrimp dumpling) is a must for 一盅两件. These dumplings had fresh scallops together with a whole prawn. Very sweet and bursting with umami.

XO酱炒萝卜糕 Fried carrot cake with shredded conpoy

XO酱炒萝卜糕 Fried carrot cake with shredded conpoy

Pan fried “carrot” cake, to be exact it is made with radish but somehow the name of carrot cake stuck with it. This deluxe version was served with conpoy (shredded dried scallops) on top of radish cake that had been incorporated cured meat bites. It was crispy on the outside and moist and soft on the inside. I liked that they had cut them into cubes, reminding me of the fried carrot cake 炒菜头粿 in Singapore street food culture.

肉松蒸三色豆腐 Steamed three colour tofu with minced pork

肉松蒸三色豆腐 Steamed three colour tofu with minced pork

I can’t remember which flavour was which, but three styles of house made tofu with a beautifully made XO sauce. Smooth like Japanese silken tofu.

首创灌汤烧鹅 Roasted goose with sauce

首创灌汤烧鹅 Roasted goose with sauce

I was craving for some roast goose but they don’t offer it on its own for lunch. Instead you have to order this “upgraded” version that come with sliced abalone and octopus legs. The roast goose was superb but not the highlight for this restaurant. The abalone and octopus were a disappointing addition though.

Afterthoughts

They have won so many Michelin stars and plates over the years for this and other establishments under the group, one cannot wonder if there’s any insider deal going on, especially Guangzhou has so many good eats.

Wall of pride

But this meal proved that they are well deserving of those accolades. Cantonese cuisine is good and they have made it better with elaborate plating and balanced flavours and texture all in a single dish. But the price for a meal here was quite above the average in Guangzhou, where you can similar or better food without the Michelin stars for a lesser outlay. In Guangzhou, you are always spoiled for choice.

Bingsheng Mansion 炳胜公馆
广州天河区珠江新城冼村路2号首府大厦5楼

Tel : +86 20 3803 5000

Date visited : Jan 2022

Michelin Guangzhou Guide 1 Star 2018-2021

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