Hanilkwan 한일관 @ Seoul

This is a revered name in Korean cuisine, the seventh-oldest active restaurant in Seoul that has been around since 1939. In 2013, Hanilkwan was named a Seoul Future Heritage for its historic value and quality.

This legendary restaurant first opened shop as Hwaseonok 花仙屋, specialising in filling stews like gukbap and chueotang all the way back in 1939, during the Japanese colonial era. After Korea’s liberation in 1945, that’s when the restaurant began establishing its famed dishes like its beef bulgogi as it changed its name to Hanilkwan 韓一館, meaning Korea’s best restaurant.

After a brief interruption in the 50s due to the Korean War, the restaurant relocated to Busan for a brief time before returning to Seoul at the end of the war only to find its former restaurant building in Jongno in its entirety had been wiped off from warfare.

It built itself a new 3 story building on Jongno 1-ga’s famed Pimatgol 피맛골 (such a large building was a rarity at that time) and would find its first wave of success for the next decade or so, opening branches in Myeongdong and elsewhere. At that time, Hanilkwan was the place for important occasions. Seoul’s elite, celebrities, politicians could all be found here most likely feasting on their famed yooksoo bulgogi 육수불고기 (soup bulgogi) in which thin slices of marinated premium beef would be cooked on the table with a broth.

Hanilkwan cuisine is Seoul cuisine. It is precisely here that neobiani, a court dish unknown to ordinary people, was firmly transformed into a popular menu item by the development of an easy and time-saving cooking method.

One of the best ways to sample a variety of fare from here is to opt for their bulgogi lunch set.

The set kicks off with a seasonal porridge, salad, various Korean savoury pancakes, bulgogi and spicy pollack, and your selection of main including woogeojitang (cabbage stew), yukgaejang (spicy beef stew), beoseot deulkkae tang (mushroom and wild sesame stew), doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), goldongban (Royal bibimbap), mandu, and naengmyeon and then capped with a dessert.

탕평채 Mung Bean Jelly with Mixed Vegetables

The mung bean jelly noodles is mixed with shredded cucumbers and pickled radish, and is seasoned with sesame oil and seaweed flakes. Delicious and packed with umami.

녹두빈대떡 Mung Bean Pancakes

Imagine McD’s pancakes but these mung bean pancakes are savoury instead.

등심불고기 Bulgogi

This bulgogi is actually a bit different from their famed yooksoo bulgogi in which the pan has a raised centre to cook the meat with a moat of the broth in which you cook mung bean noodles in to eat with. Ribbons of marinated bulgogi meat with mushroom and scallions come swimming in the broth which cooks on the table and keeps everything nice and moist. It is ever so tender and such a delicate balance of sweet and savoury. It’s no wonder their bulgogi variety has been a classic favourite for decades. 

전통갈비구이한대 Marinated galbi

This marinated galbi is cooked in the LA style. It was cut up into generous bite-sized pieces and served sizzling hot in a copper pot. Equal parts sweet and savoury, it was tender with just the right amount of chewiness. It was American beef and not hanwoo, but it was very good. The stewed potato that has soaked up the delicious sauce is welcome addition.

Yukgaejang 육개장 Spicy beef and leek soup

Yukgaejang is a hearty, spicy beef soup made with shredded beef, lots of scallions and other vegetables. It is a variety of gomguk, or thick soup, which was formerly served in Korean royal court cuisine. This soup is smoky, spicy, and rich, with plenty of vegetables that are soft, but not mushy.

Mandutang 만두탕 Dumpling soup

The manduguk (dumpling soup) comes with Hanilkwan’s characteristic lighter elements with a broth that’s deep in flavour yet light. Five handmade dumplings come with the soup encasing within it a mixture of meat and veggie goodness. Coming on the end of the meal, this is filling yet not burdensome so your stomach is warm and full at a pleasant level.

Located in the basement of Yamaya Ferrum Tower, this branch of Hanilkwan is bright and cheery. . You can see the chef really put a lot of efforts and heart in preparing the dishes. the flavour for each dish is not too strong but really tasty. Note that the lunch set is only available from 11:30 to 2:30PM everyday. The special Hanwoo sets and grilled meats will require a minimum order for 2 persons. Very popular location as it is in an office building and business district, so reservation is recommended.

Hanilkwan Euljiro Branch 한일관 을지로점
19 Euljiro 5-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul 서울특별시 중구 을지로5길 19
Tel : +82 (02) 6353 8976

Visited Jul 2024

Michelin Seoul Guide Bib Gourmand 2017

PS:

Some of the eateries in the old Pimatgol have been moved to the Le Meilleur building right next to the old location. To house more restaurants and recreate the mood of the original alley, the building created an artificial alley on the ground floor with a new, big Pimatgol sign.