Palmero @ Melbourne

A contemporary Italian twist on the age-old Argentinian tradition of sharing the best grilled cuisine and traditional wines, Palermo brings the fire & passion from Buenos Aires to a mid-town restaurant in Melbourne.

With blistering embers from the centrepiece, the asado fire pit, Palermo is the latest project from the team behind Pastuso and the CBD’s other Argentine steakhouse, San Telmo. Running the pass, you’ve got head chef Ollie Gould who’s put together a seriously cool menu.

The huge space features marble benches and tan leather banquettes on plush red carpet, which is punctuated by black and white. It’s contemporary with rustic touches in wood tabletops, bentwood chairs and exposed-brick walls and harlequin tiles.

It also incorporates a hand-painted mural depicting the Tuscan countryside that builders uncovered when they stripped back the render on one of the brick walls during the renovation.

Along with the open fire pit and parilla grill, they pay tribute to the important influence Spanish and Italian cultures have had on Argentinian cuisine.

The menu treads a familiar meat-and-malbec path honed at San Telmo over the past ten-odd years. The wine list stays faithful to Argentina with a large selection from Mendoza and Patagonia.

Crudo

Mooloolaba swordfish, lemon crème fraiche, salsa picante, pickled garlic

Crudo is typically made by thinly slicing raw fish or seafood and dressing it with olive oil, citrus, vinegar, and other seasonings. And the choice of fish is important, something fresh and fatty is always appreciated like this swordfish (or mekajiki in Japanese).

Straciatella

Straciatella cheese, blood orange, pistachios, mint, croutons

Stracciatella is a fresh, white, Italian cheese made from torn mozzarella curds and heavy cream. The name comes from the Italian word straccia, which means “rag” or “shred”. Very wet and difficult to share among the table though. Needed bread, but yo have to pay extra.

Aleta de pejerrey

Grilled kingfish wing, caperberry salsa, grilled lemon

We didn’t order this, this grilled kingfish collar came as complimentary from the chef as they ran out of our order of beef short ribs. It was under salted IMHO. Even I don’t speak Spanish, pejerrey is not kingfish but silverside smelt (or shishamo in Japanese)

Chorizo and Morcilla

Pork & paprika sausage, Spiced black sausage

The next course was homemade chorizo (spicy sausage), which was smoky, cooked to perfection and moreish. Excellent. Morcilla (black sausage) from its sister shop makes its appearance here and it does not disappoint.

Tomahawk

O’Connor’s premium, pasture fed Tomahawk (2kg)

O’Connor Beef produce some of Australia’s best grass fed beef. For over 25 years O’Connor Beef has been providing premium beef from the pristine Gippsland region of South East Victoria. With abundant, nutrient rich pastures cattle graze on natural clover and rye grass that provide protein, vitamins and minerals and result in meat that is free of genetic modifications, hormones, antibiotic or chemical residues.

Carnivores will find themselves in a pretty happy place here. Palermo excels in Argentinian cooking techniques, experienced at their best when sampling premium meats cooked atop the glowing hot coals of Melbourne’s first Asado fire pit, in a marriage with their classic Parrilla (charcoal grill).

Ensalada

Ramarro farms mixed leaf salad, pickled cucumber, radishes, tarragon dressing

Papas

Fried potatoes, balsamic onion aioli, chives

Load up with a side of Papas—crispy fried potatoes that you’ll want to hog all to yourself. The balsamic onion aioli was spot on.

Broccolini

Grilled broccolini and asparagus, salted ricotta, salsa verde, cashew cream

The broccolini, charred soft and served with green chilli, anchovy cream, cashew nuts and a dusting of parmesan, is the definitive way to eat your greens. Hidden among the broccolinis are some stalks of asparagus that is given the same baptism of fire.

The tomahawk comes with two condiments, garlicky chimichurri and spiked heirloom tomatoes salsa.

The steak is served medium-rare by default. The steak was charred well on the outside, a benefit of what must be a very hot Parilla, and beautifully pink in the middle. Seasoned simply with salt and pepper, this was by far one of the best steaks I’ve had in a long time. The salad and charred broccolini sides were also excellent.

This place is for anyone who’s got a soft spot for slow-cooked, flame-grilled, Fred Flinstone-style meat. Good food, poor value. Bread costs extra. So is tap water.  

Palermo
401 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC, 3000 Australia
Tel : +61 (03) 9002 1600 (Reservations)

Visited Oct 2024