Shaolin The Ancient Monastery 少林古刹

Before Shaolin Temple was synonymous with kung fu, it is a functioning temple and the founding temple for Chan (Zen) Buddhism.

Shaolin Temple 少林寺 is the the birth place of Chan (Zen) Buddhism 禅宗 and kung fu, It was named Shaolin Temple because it is situated in the mountain ranges of Songshan 嵩山, the middle of Five Famous Mountains in China, and within dense woods 「林」at the foot of Shaoshi Mountain 少室山.

These days the temple is cloaked in secrecy, but that relates largely to a veil of corporate confidentiality maintained by a separate business entity. CTS Songshan Shaolin Culture Tourism Company, which collects an admission fee of 100 yuan a person to enter the scenic park that people making the pilgrimage to the temple must pass through, declined to disclose visitor numbers or annual revenue.

The Mountain Gate 山门

This is the front gate of the monastery that was founded in 495 AD by Emperor Xiaowen, the 7th emperor of Northern Wei dynasty. This is also the most recognisable image of Shaolin Temple. Hung on the top is a Chinese characters tablet reading ‘Shaolin Temple’. The tablet was handwritten by the Emperor Kangxi (1669 – 1722) during the Qing Dynasty (1644 -1911).

The dhyana master Buddhabhadra (in Chinese, 跋陀 Bátuó) was the first abbot of the Shaolin Monastery. His ancestral heritage was from Iranian descent via the silk road. According to the「登封县志」 “Deng Feng County Recording” , Bátuó came to China in 464 and preached for thirty years, Nikaya Buddhism that integrated with Taoist and local folk religion’s concepts for its religious rights. Shaolin Temple was built to honour him and provided a place for him to preach.

There are many stele carvings along the entrance both sides of corridor. This is the Shaolin Temple Stele Forest. Over a hundred pieces are on display dating as far back as Tang dynasty.

Devaraja Hall 天王殿

Aka Hall of Heavenly Kings, is the first important hall inside a Mountain Gate in Chinese Buddhist temples and is named due to the Four Heavenly Kings statues enshrined in the hall.

Four Heavenly Kings’ statues are enshrined in the left and right side of the hall. There are the eastern Dhṛtarāṣṭra 持國天王 that holds a pipa 琵琶 in his hand; the southern Virūḍhaka 增長天王 that holds an umbrella(?)¹ in his hand; the western Virūpākṣa 廣目天王 with a a snake wrapped around his arm; and the northern Vaiśravaṇa 多聞天王 with a pagoda in his left hand². The Four Heavenly Kings are said to live in Mount Meru and their task is to protect the world in their direction respectively.

Drum and Bell Tower 鼓楼、钟楼

On both sides in front of the Mahavira Hall stand the Drum and Bell Towers 鼓楼、钟楼. the bell is rung every hour during the morning, while a drum is beaten every hour during the afternoon. Hence, the saying 「晨钟暮鼓」 “morning bell and afternoon drum”. Previous towers were ruined due to the war in 1928, and present buildings are built respectively in 1994 and 1996 in accordance with their former appearance.

When the Bell Tower came to be rebuilt, a number of steles were in front of it. They were scarcely legible except by special study. To protect two of them the restorers built a brick structure around them in which they appear tandem in two archways. Special cases were placed over the inscriptions with the letters appearing colour-enhanced within them.

This stele is from the time when 13 of Shaolin’s monks rescued a Qin prince, Li Shimin 李世民 (598–649), when he was under attack. A grateful Li, when he became Emperor Taizhong 唐太宗 (r. 626–649), rewarded the 13 monks with promotions, gifted a large tract of land to the monastery and, most important of all, allowed Shaolin to train 500 fighting monks who could be called upon at any time to defend the country.

Mahavira Hall 大雄宝殿

The Mahavira Hall is the main prayer hall for Sakyamuni Buddha 释迦牟尼佛, founder of Buddhism. The original hall was destroyed in 15 Mar 1928 by warlord 冯玉祥 Feng Yuxiang’s subordinate 石友三 Shi Yousan, and the present one was built in 1986.³

This hall is home to statues of Sakyamuni 释迦牟尼佛 (middle), Bhaisajyaguru aka Medicine Buddha 藥師佛 (left) and Amitabha 阿彌陀佛. In the centre of the hall is the inscription given by Emperor Kangxi, at the back of the screen is a Avalokitesshvara 观音菩萨 statue, and at its two sides are the eighteen disciples of the Buddha. Unfortunately the hall is no longer open to public, only for (paying) worshippers.

Besides the buddhas, Sakyamuni is flanked by his principal disciples Ananda⁴ and Mahakasyapa (shown here in typical image where he furrows his brow in a portentous heavy frown above hands held out in front of his chest in prayer⁵). Mahākāśyapa 摩诃迦叶 is regarded in Buddhism as an enlightened disciple, being foremost in ascetic practice. He assumed leadership of the monastic community following the parinirvāṇa (death) of the Buddha, presiding over the First Buddhist Council. He was considered to be the first patriarch in a number of Early Buddhist schools and continued to have an important role as patriarch in the Chan/Zen tradition.⁶

These are not the famous 18 bronze fighting monks 少林十八铜人 but the 18 arhats 十八罗汉. Arhats are enlightened disciples of the Buddha who have achieved Nirvana and are free from worldly desires. The 18 statues of the arhats are located on either side of the Mahavira Hall, sculptured again in 1989 and designed by Song Shufan.

The eighteen arhats have vivid figures, different look, square faces, Roman nose, big eyes, thick beard, rising brow ridge, sharp outlines, vigorous patterns of clothes, appropriate ratio and delicate carvings. There are 7 statues with thick beard among them. Although figures of arhats don’t have beautiful appearance, they own the inner beauty of compassion and solemnness, embodying extraordinary power of discipline, Chan and wisdom.

Bodhidharma is founder of Chan (Zen) Buddhism in China. His image is nearly developed based on legends and imaginations, popular after the Song Dynasty. His sculpture (middle) is usually an image of foreign monk, with bald head, big eyes and bushy eyebrows, square face, big ears wearing large earrings, heavily bearded face and hands holding a cane.

Besides the statues, the Main Hall also houses a couple of old relics, including these drum and bell combination.

Scripture Hall 藏经阁

The Scripture Hall 藏经阁 no longer keeps scriptures. Rare books including secret martial arts manuals and historical buddhist scriptures were used to be kept here. All of them were burnt in the 1928 inferno. Hence the character 「藏」is missing a few strokes in purpose by the calligrapher of the plaque.

A large iron pot is placed in front of the Scripture Hall, minted during Ming Wanli reign(r. 1572 to 1620), which was used by Shaolin monks for cooking in the ancient days. Based on the layout of the kitchen, it was said that six of these were used to prepare meals for all the monks in those days.

The White Jade Reclining Buddha is also called “Nirvana” and a representation of Buddha, just before he passed into the afterlife. It portrays the Buddha lying on his side, with a calm and content expression, holding his head in the right hand and keeping the position of sleep. The jade statue presents a white colour, crystal clear manifesting the spirit and aura. The statue, with a length of 7 meters and a weight of 16.5 tons, was presented by a Buddhist devotee from Burma in 1997.

Abbot’s Court 方丈室

Abbot’s court is where the abbots live. Qing Emperor Qianlong once stayed here when traveling to Mt. Songshan, hence the other name of 「龍庭」”Dragon’s Court”.

And surrounding the Abbot’s Court are rooms for the monks to meditate as well as guesthouses for devotees to the temple. Many of the buildings had to be reconstructed numerous times, meaning that the structures you see today are a result of successive renovation.

Around the gardens in the temple are many ancient trees; some are intertwined with each other, and some like this one has survived the 1928 fire.

Manjusri Hall 文殊殿

The statue of Manjushri Bodhisattva 文殊菩萨 riding a blue lion sculptured in 1995 is worshipped in this hall. His two attendants is on either side of the statue. Bodhisattva Manjushri, Guanyin, Samantabhadra and Ksitigarbha are collectively called four great Bodhisattvas. It is said that Bodhisattva Manjushri’ s wisdom is supreme among these bodhisattvas. Manjushri rolls up his hair in five buns, holds ruyi in hands, sits on the lotus pedestal, rides a lion symbolising wisdom, sharp and strength. The original Manjushri Hall had been destroyed in the late Qing Dynasty, and the existing was rebuilt in 1983.

Avalokitesavara Hall 观音殿

The hall is for worship of Guanyin 观音菩萨 aka Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. This is a Buddha who came to Earth to save sentient beings. The bodhisattva is said to appear in 33 different forms, each with a different way to help save beings. The wall of the hall contains murals of 13 monks in rescue of Li Shimin.

Dharma Pavilion 立雪亭

When we were there, Dharma Pavilion was under repairs. In 527, another Indian monk by the name of Bodhidharma, aka Dharma or in China as Dámó 达摩, arrived at the Shaolin Monastery and founded a new tradition known as Chan (Zen) Buddhism 禅宗, which was more suited to the Chinese and thus overtook Nikaya Buddhism as the tradition of the temple.⁷ Chan is known in the West through its Japanese form of Zen. Chan and Zen have the same roots but have developed into culturally different practice traditions over the centuries.

Thousand Bodhisattva Hall 千佛殿

Pilu Hall 毗盧閣, also called the Thousand Buddha Hall 千佛殿, was built during the Ming Dynasty. This is main highlight and the largest Buddhist hall in Shaolin Temple. The hall is for the worship of Pilu Buddha, who is the universal primordial Vairocana Buddha from whom all Buddhas emanate. Similarly, the Brahmajala Sutra also states that Shakyamuni was originally named Vairochana, regarding the former as a physical incarnation (nirmāṇakāya) of the latter.

The Bronze Statue of Vairochana Buddha was made in 16th year of Ming Emperor Wanli (1588). It is 2.5 metres tall, dressed in a cassock exposing his chest and belly, sits on the upturn lotus with his legs crossed, head wearing a crown, his face like a full moon, a broad shoulder and a slender waist, a majestic air, sits on a thousand-leaf lotus pedestal. The statue is a fine work of bronze cast in the Ming Dynasty. The statue is located in a large wooden shrine that was made in the 15th year of the Qing Emperor Qianlong (1750).

On the floor of the hall are 48 pits in 4 rows sunk into the brick floor. Those pits are called 「站樁坑」”standing stance pits” and it is said that they are the footprints left by monks when they practiced Shaolin martial arts from repeatedly stamping on the floor over the centuries.

Ksitigarbha Hall 地藏殿

There is a statue of a Buddha, but it isn’t Ksitigarbha. Kṣitigarbha is usually depicted wearing a monk’s robes and holding a staff with six rings and a wish-granting jewel. I am really interested to learn more about the stone to the left of the hall. However, like many other halls, this is also out of bounds to tourists.

Samantabhadra Hall 普贤殿

The hall is three-room width, worshipping the statue of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva 普贤菩萨 riding a white elephant sculptured in 1995. His two attendants is on either side of the statue. The white elephant is Puxian’ s mount which has a white body, six teeth, and four feet stepping on the three-feet lotus throne. Puxian sits on the elephant’s back, holding Ruyi in his hands.

Six Patriarch Hall 祖师殿

Six Patriarch Hall 祖师殿 also known as the Founder’s Hall, is the most important annex halls in Chinese Buddhist temples for enshrining masters of various Buddhism schools. Generally the hall in Chan Buddhism temples has Bodhidharma enshrined in the middle, the 六祖慧能 6th Master Huineng’s (638-713) statue on the left and 百丈怀海 Master Baizhang Huaihai’s (720-814) statue on the right.

The monastery has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. In the late 1920s, Shaolin monks became embroiled in the warlords’ feuds that swept the plains of northern China. They sided with General Fan Zhongxiu (1888–1930), who had studied martial arts at Shaolin Temple as a child, against Shi Yousan (1891–1940). Fan was defeated and, in the spring of 1928, Yousan’s troops entered Dengfeng and Shaolin Temple, which served as Fan Zongxiu’s headquarters. A large number of cultural relics and 5,480 volumes of Buddhist scriptures were destroyed in the fire.

Visited Mar 2024

Footnotes:

1. Virūḍhaka 增長天王 usually holds a sword and not an umbrella. ↩︎
2. Vaiśravaṇa 多聞天王usually holds a precious umbrella in his right hand and a silver sacred mouse in his left hand. ↩︎
3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shi_Yousan ↩︎
4. Ananda (Burmese: အာနန္ဒာ, ànàɴdà ; Chinese: 阿難 Ānán; Japanese: 阿難 Anan) was one of the principal disciples and a devout attendant of The Buddha. Amongst The Buddha’s many
   disciples, Ānanda had the most retentive memory and most of the suttas in the Sutta Pitaka are attributed to his recollection of The Buddha’s teachings during the First Buddhist Council. For that, he was known as the Guardian of the Dharma.
   According to The Buddha every Buddha in the past and to come will have two chief disciples and one attendant during his ministry. In the case of Gautama Buddha the pair of disciples were Sariputta and Mahamoggallana and the attendant Ānanda. https://tibetanbuddhistencyclopedia.com/en/index.php?title=Ānanda ↩︎
5. http://www.alaintruong.com/archives/2016/02/26/33432832.html ↩︎
6. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/articles/Mahakasyapa ↩︎
7. http://shaolinchancity.blogspot.com/2008/12/three-lineages-of-shaolin_11.html ↩︎