Au Cadet de Gascogne @ Paris

Often described as tourist traps, restaurants in popular destinations are usually not my first choice in terms of dining choice. But Princess and I were too tired after negotiating the hills of Montmartre and simply picked the most popular one in the square.

Montmartre is a large hill in Paris’s northern 18th arrondissement. It is 130 m high and gives its name to the surrounding district, part of the Right Bank. Montmartre is primarily known for its artistic history (Picasso, Van Gogh and many others were its residents), for the white-domed Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur on its summit, and as a nightclub district famous for the cabaret Moulin Rouge.

Nearby the Basilica, Au Cadet de Gascogne is the most authentic French brasserie of the area, and one of the oldest (1923). The Cadets de Gascogne, or Captains of Gascony, was a French regiment which served under King Louis XIII that recruited the youngest sons of aristocratic Gascony families. The restaurant was founded by Henri Borde, the youngest son of a Gascony family, and hence the name.

It’s right by Place de Tertre so we could sit, relax and watch as the tourists and artists were milling about. Known for its artists, portrait painters and caricaturists vying for space against the surrounding bistro terraces this small paved square is a ‘must see’ for many. The square was opened to the public in 1635 as the then ‘Montmartre village’ central square.

The restaurant is an architectural delight as well. It is built on two floors. With a large dining on the upper floor, it has kept the old charm of the traditional decoration with exposed stones and beams. The restaurant also houses paintings of Place du Tertre’s artists.

We sat at the table in the square, which was quite cold and wet given the rainy day. I asked for a table in the restaurant but they said that section is closed.

Cuisses de grenouilles poêlées à l’ail et persil | Pan-fried frog legs with garlic and parsley

Frog legs, or cuisses de grenouille as it is known in France, are a traditional dish particularly found in the region of the Dombes (département of Ain). Eaten for over a thousand years, they have been part of the national diet of France. and the star of bistros and Michelin-starred restaurants.

I love frog legs, and we Chinese eat them prepared in casseroles, as a soup and deep fried like the French. Here’s the frog legs are dusted with flour and salt, deep fried in oil and finished in the pot with garlic and parsley. Delicious and strangely familiar.

Escargots persillés | Snails with with finely chopped parsley

The first recorded escargot dish was served in France during the reign of King Louis XIV. Yes, that’s the Sun King who was responsible for the Palace of Versailles and all the opulence of the French royalties. Au contraire to popular beliefs, the French eat snails and frogs largely due to historical culinary traditions, regional availability, and their status as gourmet foods, rather than as a holdover from a time of scarcity.

At the foundation of this esteemed dish lie simple yet premium ingredients: land snails, garlic, parsley, and butter. Combined, these elements form a complex mix of flavours, exemplifying the rich taste profile achievable through time-honoured cooking methods. As they are carefully baked, the snails absorb the aromatic essence of the herbed butter, emerging as a refined embodiment of French cuisine’s sophisticated palate.

Soupe à l’oignon gratinée maison | Homemade onion soup au gratin

Onion soups have been popular at least as far back as Roman times. Throughout history, they were seen as food for poor people, as onions were plentiful and easy to grow. The modern version of this soup originates in France in the 18th century, typically made from beef consommé, and caramelised onions. They are almost always capped with a gratin of melted cheese, usually Gruyère and croutons. Delicious and hearty, perfect for such a cold and rainy day.

Moules marinières, frites | Steamed mussels with fries

We skipped past the hamburgers and pizzas which most of the tourists ordered. And then there’s the steak frites and fish dishes which didn’t catch our fancy. Finally we settled for mussels.

We were surprised how much mussels there were with the order. An entire pot of mussels steamed in white wine and fish stock. We worked through the pile of mussels and they were fresh and sweet.

Came with a side of fries. I don’t know how fries became French. American soldiers stationed in Belgium during World War I are said to have discovered the dish and named it “French fries” because French is the dominant language in southern Belgium. Everyone who has been following my blog knows how much I love McD’s fries, and these cannot be compared.

The restaurant collaborates with Paris Pass to offer a mignardises experience as part of the package so be prepared to get a lot of tourists. They would with tour groups, so it can get busy and then the service level will drop. But when they are not busy, the place is a lovely stop to taste some of the authentic French bistro classics.

Au Cadet de Gascogne
4 Pl. du Tertre, 75018 Paris, France
Tel : +33 1 46 06 71 73

Visited Oct 2024