I brought my APJ team members to the oldest restaurant in Denver in our recent work trip to the US and it was an experience of a lifetime for everyone on American taxidermy culture and game food. 

History of The Buckhorn Exchange

Buckhorn Exchange opened in 1893 and is certified to be Denver’s Oldest Restaurant that is still in operation today. Special care was taken to preserve the basic exterior which was designated an historic landmark by the City and County of Denver in 1972. 

It was founded by Henry H. “Shorty Scout” Zietz (R), one of the most colourful figures of the Old West. The name “Shorty Scout” was given to him because of his small size by Chief Sitting Bull, the famous Sioux chief that formulate the world’s impression of American Indians with their feathered headdress and Yoda-like wisdoms. He was part of the band of scouts with Col. William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody. Such were things that legends were made of.

The restaurant contains over 500 mounted animals and trophy heads of every description, including an African Cape Buffalo allegedly shot by President Teddy Roosevelt (1858-1919). 

In case you are wondering who was Teddy Roosevelt, he was that President that was constantly riding a horse in “Night at the Museum” played by Robin Williams. “Shorty” Zietz was Roosevelt’s hunting party scout in 1907 when he visited Denver. 

The whole place brims with historic artefacts, legends and historic moments. Four presidents — Teddy Roosevelt, Dwight Eisenhower, Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan dined at the Buckhorn. 

The walls of Buckhorn detailed its century-year-old history, including a rare 500-piece collection of game – deer and moose; giant buffalo and mountain sheep; dozens of indigenous fowl; even a two-headed calf and jackalope.

The 125-piece gun collection includes Colt .45s, Winchesters, Derringers, a Sharp’s sporting rifle dating to 1889 and rare palm pistol dating to 1891 and the Minneapolis Firearm Co.

Buckhorn Exchange is one of the oldest operating restaurants in the United States, but it was not the first restaurant in US. That honour goes to White Horse Tavern (1673). However it had the privilege to be the first restaurant to receive the first liquor license in the state of Colorado. The liquor license is still valid today.

The Buckhorn’s ornate white-oak bar and back-bar, made in Essen Germany in 1857, and brought here by the Zietz family, was relocated to the second floor where it anchors the Buckhorn’s Victorian lounge.  

Rocky Mountain oysters with horseradish dippin’ sauce

Rocky Mountain oysters is a dish made with bull testicles. The organs are often deep-fried after being skinned, coated in flour, pepper and salt, and sometimes pounded flat. This delicacy is most often served as an appetiser. Here, they sliced the “oysters”, deep fried them, and served with a horseradish dip and a classic cocktail sauce. Tasted like deep fried shiitake mushrooms.

Smoked buffalo sausage with red chile polenta and spicy wild game mustard

If you are not familiar with buffalo meat, I would suggest to get this sausage for that first encounter. Smoked buffalo sausage with red chile polenta and spicy wild game mustard is another crowd favourite and on their menu for the longest time. The sausage tasted like Taiwanese pork sausage but leaner. The casing had a crunch and meat heavily seasoned. The polenta was surprising delicious and loaded with (cheap) cheddar cheese.

Fried alligator center cut tail with seafood cocktail sauce

I tried this in a previous trip last year and fell in love with this small bites of cellulose from the alligator’s tail. It’s like munching on chicken cartilage, and my Japanese colleagues loved it. Came with a tangy cocktail sauce, it is a perfect appetiser with cold beer. But it was -10°C outside, and no one was drinking beer though.

Sirloin game tips

This stew made from spare cuts from beef, buffalo, and elk sautéed with fresh mushrooms in a different sauce each day shows off the kitchen’s ingenuity. Usually these trimmings are thrown away in a high-end restaurant or incorporated into the staff meal. But these are fatty bits which are perfect for stewing to produce this rich, thick potpourri of goodness. I suggest that you order this as a side for the mains instead of appetiser. You will thank me.

I had to give it to them for such nostalgic tastes for their freshly baked breads. These rolls were soft and moist and sweet, you will need the salted whipped butter to balance the sweetness. But these were the dinner rolls that I grew up with, and I don’t know when the restaurants started to ditch these and gave the fancy sourdough and French breads instead.

Two quails and elk tenderloin

I always order their two quails and elk tenderloin. Before you start flaming me for eating wild game, elks served here are farm-raised specially for the Buckhorn. Elks are essential the North American version of deers, which is venison meat we eat in Asia regularly. We had a broiled medium rare tenderloin served with flavoured butter which has a velvety texture and flavour hinting of grass and cedar.

Few game birds are as versatile, simple to cook, and easy to enjoy as quail, served with a prickly pear and apricot glaze. These plump, juicy birds should be the basis for “Game 101,” because they make everyone – from novices to professionals – look like a champion. Grilled, broiled, or sautéed, they’re almost impossible to ruin.

Elk & Cornish game hen 

Despite the name, the Cornish game hen is not a game bird. The name is doubly a misnomer because both males and females are served as Cornish game hens, meaning that many are not actually hens. The size of cooked Cornish game hens is due solely to the very young age at which they are slaughtered. So basically you are eating a teenage chicken. Enjoy.

Buffalo prime rib & salmon

Their high plains buffalo prime rib is slow roasted to medium rare and then sliced for the plate and further enhanced for your preferred doneness. I had a small piece of the prime rib, and it was tender and juicy, lean and sweet, just what I expected of the buffalo. Mental note to self: try the full prime rib next time I am here instead of my usual quail and elk.

The population dwindles once upon a time due to over hunting and destruction of their grazing ground, great American bison once again reigns as the king of the plains with conservation efforts. The meat of this historic beast is lean and sweet, and not gamey as many assumed. Although it was referred to as buffalo meat, it has nothing to do with the water buffalo we are familiar in Asia.

Buffalo prime rib blackened 16 oz

The prime rib blackened 16 oz came with a crust of peppercorn and spices for that burnt spicy taste and crispy texture.

The Buckhorn’s famous 24-oz Porterhouse

For those not into game meat (which most are no longer hunted, because they all came from their own farm), Buckhorn serves USDA Prime grade beef as well. And in you want the best of both worlds, order their 24-oz Porterhouse, which is basically sirloin and tenderloin on the T-bone.

Besides the meat, every order comes with a choice of a side which you can pick a salad or a soup, a starch (potato or wild rice) and unlimited serving of bread. We also ordered the steak toppers, but remember these are all American portions. The amount of food can be overwhelming, but we managed to finish everything.

Afterwards

It was an experience that can only be Buckhorn. A roofgarten, heated year-round, was added for private parties, family reunions, company dinners, or simply to take in the ambiance of the Old West. The gourmet trip was a like a visit to the Museum of the Wild West with a steakhouse serving game animals. Of course, these days the game was farmed. It did not spoil the fun to see things like Rocky Mountain oysters and rattlesnakes on the menu. Highly recommended if you come to the Mile High City.

Buckhorn Exchange
1000 Osage St, Denver, CO 80204 
Tel : +1 303-534-9505 

Visited Jan 2025