JAAN was previously helmed by Andre Chiang who has moved on and started his own restaurant André. Taking over was a Brit Julien Royer that brought his own concepts of seasonal cuisine to the restaurant.
Royer joined Jaan in Aug 2013 with a resume that includes stints with masters of French cuisine Antonin Bonnet, Bernard Andrieux and Michel Bras. And the young Frenchman has learnt well.
Of course, when it comes to this level of dining, five courses doesn’t strictly mean five plates. There’s almost always a plethora of other “complimentary” bites thrown in to either whet the appetite or cleanse the palate. JAAN is no exception and after our orders are taken we’re immediately started off with some Canapés, our favorites of which were the black sesame sponge with smoked Danish Eel, walnut crackers with grated Cantal cheese and Chef Royer’s interpretation of Lentil Hummus.
Another amuse bouche that all diners received was Mushroom tea with cep mushroom, smoked potato and black truffle, a classical one that shouldn’t be missed. The clear mushroom broth has a depth of flavours and the emulsion on the top was airy and delicious.
Butter from Brittany and Fluer de Sel
Beetroot Collection – burrata artigiana, honeycombs, radish
The first course for both menus opens up with the Beetroot Collection – burrata artigiana, honeycombs, radish – different types of beetroots, accompanied by beetroot sorbet, coulis of burratta artigiana and honeycombs. It’s a nice start and perhaps serves as an opening statement for Chef Royer’s philosophy when it comes to food. It was like a piece of art – a delicate, intricate mixing of textures, temperatures, and variants of a magenta colour on the plate. Eaten individually made for nothing much, but when we began mixing them into the same spoonful, it became something quite special. BTW, those are not salmon roe, but olive pearls.
Autumn Garden – root vegetables, mushroom ketchup, Burgundy truffle
55′ Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg, ratte potato, chorizo iberico, buckwheat
55′ Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg, ratte potato, chorizo iberico, buckwheat arrived with the great pomp of being served in a tray over a block with a endless stream of white mist gushing over and cloaking the table. The waiter picked the egg from the tray and poured it in with the rest of the condiments in the glass. All in all, it was a glorious creamy egg dish. The chorizo, somewhat reminiscent of bacon, provided the salt to the otherwise seemingly non-seasoned potatoes and balanced the dish like a perfect breakfast.
Grilled Toriyama Beef, baby girolles, Hokkaido corn, sherry vinegar
Finest Cheese Selection and Condiments
For the Finest Cheese Selection and Condiments, the hostess swivelled over a beautiful trolley display of cheeses, both hard and soft, with a variety of textures, and began asking for our preferences before proceeding to put together a tasting platter of 4 cheeses.
Biscotti was served with homemade plum, strawberry and pear jams as well.
Palate Cleanser – Kyoho Grape Elderflower, lemon, granite
We had a pretty glass of Kyoho Grape Elderflower, lemon, granite before the main dessert arrived. It was pretty refreshing.
Choconuts Tart, taste and texture
The Choconuts Tart, taste and texture where caramelised peanuts, peanut powder and macadamia ice cream are served with sables cookie and Tanariva chocolate mousse. It is a smorgasbord of chocolate and hazelnuts with different preparation techniques resulting in a feast of different textures, flavours and temperatures. Crisp, spongy, moist, chocolatey, it’s all here.
After all that food we’re served our choice of coffee and tea, and get to wash it down with the petit fours of the day – rosemary ice-cream with chocolate, canele, coconut marshmallow, cep-mushroom and chocolate macaron.
Jaan was an exceptional experience. The restaurant itself seats about 30 persons, and the setting is warm, posh, yet intimate, and the service is excellent, professional yet personal. Overall, the food was good and some dishes were especially memorable. Remember to reserve a table at least 2 weeks in advance, as they typically run at full-house on a daily basis.
Chef Julien Royer
Chef Julien Royer is inspired by the Artisanal Cuisine Movement that is built around a passion to showcase the freshest ingredients though simple but beautiful dishes that reflect both culinary tradition and his won creativity. He is the latest culinary star to grace the kitchen of Jaan as Chef de Cuisine.
Level 70, Equinox Complex, Swissôtel The Stamford
2 Stamford Road, Singapore 178882
+65 6837 3322
Date of visit: Oct 2014
PS: Chef Julien Royer has moved on to open Odette, his own Michelin 2-star at National Gallery.
Michelin Guide Singapore 1 Star 2017-18