Hop Alley @ Denver

There are very few good Chinese eating places in Denver and Hop Alley stood out especially when it was given the Bib Gourmand recognition by Michelin for the first time in 2023.

Hop Alley (link to its sad and dark history) refers to the original name for Denver’s Chinatown, but there’s nothing historic about this sleek restaurant. The space is dark, a little gritty amid shou sugi ban (burnt wood) and concrete, and hopping—as it has been from the moment it opened in 2015.

In keeping with the contemporary look, the Chinese menu with Sichuan leanings features modern adaptations of classics. It’s a surprisingly concise menu, with just 22 dishes divided into four categories: cold, hot, meat and seafood, and rice, noodles and dumplings.

Hong You Chao Shou

boiled pork & pickled cabbage dumplings. dressed with chili oil, smoked soy and peanuts

This was the spiciest dumplings I ever had in US! And they were comparable to the heat from the original ones called 红油抄手 in Chongqing or Chengdu in Sichuan China. The only complain I have about their version was the amount of vinegar used was a bit too much. They should leave it to the diner to decide how sour they want their dumplings. And the peanuts were a waste of time – they tasted like they had been deep fried in recycled oil and tasted vile.

After being burnt by the spices, we asked for some steamed rice to soothe the nerves. It came in a classic Chinese takeaway box that is common in the US. Chuckles.

Eggplant With Garlic Sauce

dredged and fried eggplant, bell pepper, red onion, darks soy and black vinegar garlic sauce

We are trying to figure out the Chinese equivalent from this dish. The waitress of the chef could not help me because no one is Chinese in the restaurant! It looked like 鱼香茄子 but it was without the soul of the dish, which is ferment bean paste. Then I realised that this is Americanised version called Sichuan Eggplant that is made without the fermented bean paste. It has a sharper Sichuan peppercorn taste, and I didn’t enjoy the numbness.

Three Cup Chicken

bone in chicken braised in a slightly spicy chinese sauce of soy, sesame oil and shaoxing wine. served with pearl onions and thai basil

This version is the Taiwanese-style Three Cup Chicken 三杯鸡, which involved three cups of condiments in equal measure – a cup of rice wine, a cup of soy sauce and a cup of sesame oil. The Taiwanese version topped the Mainland version with loads of basil. Over here, however, there’s one ingredient that’s missing, whole garlic cloves. Instead, pearl onions were used and the sauce was made slightly spicy.

Gai Lan

grilled chinese broccoli with schmaltz, oyster sauce and house made duck salt

There’s plenty of originality and bold flavours, as seen in dishes like gai lan, a dynamic plate of grilled Chinese broccoli with schmaltz and oyster sauce finished with house-made duck salt and crispy shallots.  It has to go with the rice, as everything was really salty.

Afterthoughts

What I really like about Hop Alley is that it has got it all: amazing flavours, top-notch ingredients, friendly service, pocket-friendly prices, and it caters to all kinds of diners. I come to Denver twice a year and would totally make this joint my go-to spot.

At Hop Alley, the food shines brighter than the plating. Dishes are served family style from large, varied plates and platters, with fun touches like rice in Chinese takeout boxes. The ultimate experience here is sharing lots of dishes with lots of people, so don’t come alone!

Hop Alley Denver
3500 Larimer St., Denver, Colorado 80205 United States
Tel : +1 (720) 379-8340

Visited Oct 2023

Michelin Denver Guide Bib Gourmand 2023

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