Nyona Breeze Desire @ Penang

Penang is one of the three places (the other being Malacca and Singapore) where Peranakan calls home. And from this unique race comes Nyonya cuisine, a fantastic mixture of Chinese, Malay, Indian, Thai, Indonesian and even Western influences, spices and techniques.

Penang is synonymous with Nyonya cuisine and many locals would have Chinese Peranakan parentage. Peranakan fare was mostly prepared at home and enjoyed among family. And this was the feeling you get when dining at Nyona Breeze Desire. Nyonya Breeze Desire prepares each dish with great attention to detail, balancing flavours and tastes, under the watchful eyes of Matriarch/Chef/Owner Rosie Yew. 

Nasi Ulam (Herb Fried Rice)

Nasi ulam is the penultimate Nyona dish, tedious in preparation and complex in flavours. Cooked rice tossed with finely chopped fresh herbs and turmeric, toasted grated coconut, toasted belacan (dried shrimp paste) powder and fried salted fish. The colourful rice is full of character, echoing the culinary prowess of the Nyonyas.

Acar Awak (Nyonya Spicy Mixed Vegetable Pickle)

Acar awak is a delightful side dish that accompanies every Peranakan meal. This pickled vegetable dish has a perfect combination of sweet, sour and spicy with a rich nutty flavour.

Tau Eu Bak (Stewed Pork Belly in Dark Soy Sauce)

Tau Eu Bak is a homey dish with pork belly simmered in an intensely flavourful soy sauce broth. Although it looked unappetising, the flavours were spot on.

Huan Chu Heok Masak Lemak (Sweet Potato Leaf in Coconut Curry)

Huan chu heok masak lemak uses young sweet potato leaves cooked in a coconut milk curry with prawns and sweet potato. The gravy is rich and wonderful, similar to the Padang sayur manis.

Kiam Chai Ark Tng (Salted Vegetable Duck Soup)

Also known as itek tim in Singapore, kiam chai ark tng has strong Teochew-Hokkien origin with a twist. It consists of duck, preserved mustard greens and cabbage flavoured with nutmeg, dried shiitake mushrooms (optional), tomatoes (must have) and peppercorns.

Gulai Tumis Ikan (Tamarind Fish Curry)

Gulai Tumis is a hot and sour curry which is traditionally famous among the Nyonya and Hainanese households in Malaysia. And to that curry, fish is often added and is often referred to as ikan asam pedas (sour and spicy fish). The type of fish depends on what they can get fresh from the market, and tonight’s fish was the fleshy kim chiau (golden pomfret). Goes very well with the steamed rice.

Sambal Udang Petai (Spicy Stinky Bean with Prawns)

A popular dish consisting of sambal stir-fried with udang (prawns) and petai, or stinky beans — an acquired taste, but with many die-hard fans including me. But unlike other places, there are more petai than udang in this version.

Kari Kapitan (Coconut Curry Chicken)

Kari Kapitan, the chicken curry dish which solidifies Chef Rosie’s reputation as one of the best Nyona chef, is cooked using a “rempah” of freshly-ground lemongrass, galangal, turmeric root, ginger, red chilis, “belacan” (fermented shrimp paste), onions, garlic, candlenuts and other local condiments. The curry sauce is enriched with coconut milk, whilst lime juice and kaffir lime leaves are added to enhance the aroma. The best dish for the evening.

Otak-Otak (Spicy Fish Cake)

Otak means “brains” in Indonesian and Malay, and the name of the dish is derived from the idea that the dish somewhat resembles brains, being whitish grey, soft and almost squishy. The Penang-Nyonya version of otak-otak is mousse-like, unlike the firmer Singapore version. The version here did away with the banana leaf wrappers and was steamed in bowls instead, kind of a no-no for me.

Overall a really good Peranakan restaurant with a wallet-friendly price despite being in one of the most expensive area in Penang. Everything was a bit too sweet, but still packed a lot of complex flavours. Recommended.

Nyona Breeze Desire
3A-1-7, Straits Quay, Jalan Seri Tg Pinang, 10470 Tanjung Tokong, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Tel : +60 4-899 9058