Taiwan has many night markets and some of them have excellent street food vendors that have received the recommendations by that tyre company-turned food critic.
A long-practiced tradition, the minute the sun goes down, shop vendors, including local families with generations-old recipes, pop up and line the streets with every kind of food imaginable. The lively environment is accentuated by fryers, grills, and glowing blow torches that attract locals and tourists who willingly form lines around the block for their favourites.
These days, a night market is an opportunity for new immigrants to Taiwan to seek their fortune. Many use the night markets to launch their F&B dreams. And this is especially obvious along Linjiang Street Night Market 临江街夜市, popularly referred locally as Tonghua Night Market 通化夜市 because it was where it first started. Tonghua Night Market had four stalls that have in the past been awarded Michelin Bib Gourmand status, although none of them retained their status in the most recent edition. I went to two of them this evening.
The Taiwanese “Pop Corn”
Lu Wei 卤味, or braised goods, is the Taiwanese equivalent of Shanghainese Zao Huo 糟货 (wine lee marinated food). Both use parts of poultry and offals of cattle that are usually discarded, and turned them into delicious snacks. Lu Wei is in the collective memory of Taiwanese as the snack food to bring to watch a movie, kind of “pop corn” for the teenagers as they watched a movies in the post-war era.
Lu wei is a staple at night markets across Taiwan. Customers grab a small basket and help themselves buffet-style to a variety of braised meats, tofu, and vegetables, which are then chopped up while patrons wait. While it isn’t hard to find a lu wei stand (or two; Tonghua Night Market has three the last time I counted), one of the best purveyors anywhere is Liang Chi Lu Wei.
Liang Chi Lu Wei 梁記滷味 has been selling this snack food since 1965. The reasonable price, together with Liang Chi’s extra large selection of food items keeps this stall busy. This business stands out for its braising liquid, made from a secret recipe closely guarded by the boss. Signature dishes include duck wings, braised cow stomachs, seaweed, and dry tofu. All served with Taiwanese pickled cabbage.
I overheard an interesting conversation by another patron (most likely from Hong Kong) telling the boss that his lu wei was cheap considered it was Michelin-rated, to which the boss replied, “It’s lu wei, how expensive can it get?”
I have tasted many lu wei stores in Taipei, bought from the many night markets and famous shops, I have to say Liang Chi’s very tasty indeed. And it was even nicer when I left it overnight in the fridge. Highly recommended if you are in this night market and prepared to queue.
Liang Chi Lu Wei 梁記滷味
Alley 50, Lane 39, Tonghua Street, Da’an, Taipei 106 Taiwan
Michelin Taiwan Guide Bib Gourmand 2018-2022
What’s that sewage smell?
If you are like me, who love 臭豆腐 stinky tofu, you just let the nose lead you to right store. Most foreigners find it hard to tolerate the pungent smell of Taiwanese stinky tofu that permeates almost all night markets.
Tien Hsiang’s special care in preparing this delicate fried dish earns them their Bib Gourmand mention; even foreigners are willing to try their version!
The secret to the deliciousness of its stinky tofu lies in the double deep-frying, just like McD’s French fries. First, the raw tofu is fried at a lower temperature to evaporate the excess moisture in the tofu; then it is fried again at a high temperature to make it crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
After frying, a hole is immediately poked in the middle and filled with garlic puree. A secret sauce made with sweet soy sauce and vinegar is drizzled on the tofu. Finally, tofu is topped with homemade cabbage picklesWith refreshing crystal pickles. The contrast in taste and texture is exciting, while it smells bad, it is really tasty in the mouth.
It started raining when I was packing the lu Wei, so I decided to ask them to pack the tofu to go as well. I also ordered their 麻辣臭豆腐 Sichuan spicy stinky tofu, which came with delicious 鸭血 duck blood pudding that had fully absorbed the flavours of the spicy soup. When was amazing was that the tofu remained crispy when I was eating them in the hotel. Excellent!
Tien Hsiang Stinky Tofu 天香臭豆腐 – 雅口麻辣臭豆腐專賣店
台北市大安區臨江街19-1號
02-2704-0289
Michelin Taiwan Guide Bib Gourmand 2019
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