This is one shop I have not been to for a long time, since the PR fiasco in 2020. While that incident was a textbook what not to do in a public appeal, it should not influence the taste that I came to love.
When it comes to bak kut teh, I prefer the Teochew-style peppery clear soup that is the de facto style in Singapore. Unlike Malaysian-style Hokkien-style BKT which is infused with lots of herbs, Singapore-style BKT leans towards a lighter colour soup with a robust peppery note. And Founder Bak Kut Teh serves the Teochew-style BKT.
Founder Bak Kut Teh 發起人肉骨茶 has been around for more than 40 years and is a favourite for both local and overseas artists and famous individuals. It was started in 1978 in a coffee shop in Choa Chu Kang and moved to this Balestier Road restaurant in 1998.
Founder’s founder (no pun intended) Mr Chua Chwee Whatt was a pig farmer in Seletar – one of the last of a dying breed – who enjoyed patronising bak kut teh stalls. He tried many places but felt that most of them were lacking in quality, mainly due to poor raw ingredients. Therefore, out of interest and passion; he decided to prepare the dish from scratch by using the pigs he owns.
The multitude of celebrity photographs that filled the walls of the eatery shows a time when it was popular and crowds thronged the restaurant during its opening hours, especially the overseas celebrities that came in late hours after their work. This evening, perhaps I was really early (6pm), only a couple of tables were occupied, definitely a departure from its heyday when I had to queue to get a seat.
While most would swear by the normal spare ribs, I always go for the more luxurious 长排骨 premium ribs. They were cooked perfectly; the meat simply fell off the bone effortlessly while remaining tender and moist.
I always order 猪腰汤 pig’s kidney soup as this is my favourite part of the pig. Like all simple things in life, it is inexpensive but hard to precess. It would smell like a latrine if not cleaned properly, and tastes like chalk if overcooked.
These days due to the rising costs of manpower, this dish has become expensive and often prepared poorly. Luckily, they still deliver a proper version. And just look at the thickness of each slice of kidney, I am in BKT heaven.
The braise was what propelled them to the top of the charts in the first place – braise pig trotters, intestines and other offals. As I was dining alone, I ordered a single portion of 卤大肠粉肠 braised pig’s large and small intestine, which had kept the standard. If not for my carbo restraining order, the sauce could make me eat another bowl of rice.
The trick to a good 咸菜 salted vegetables is being not salty. Ironic? But you want the right amount of saltiness so that the rest of the flavours can come through. The version here is garlicky, soft but not mushy, but too salty. Again, it is great eaten with rice, but when you are out of carbo, the saltiness was overwhelming.
The service was attentive, and Nigel helmed the kitchen, making sure the soup was spot-on. The food remained high quality, although I could not figure out why the soup has become darker and more murky. I spotted Mr Chua Snr at the counter, politely nodding to him when he turned to my side as he awoke from his nap. It was a melancholy moment.
Founder Bak Kut Teh 發起人肉骨茶
347 Balestier Road, Singapore 329777
Tel : +65 6352 6192
Visited Oct 2024
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