Dinner by Heston Blumenthal @ London

Taking inspiration from facts, events and recipes dating as far back as the 13^th century, the cuisine at Dinner is a modern menu of dishes inspired by British history.

I didn’t know what to expect as I walked through the door of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a bit like Alice through the rabbit hole. Firstly, Fat Duck came to mind, but from what I read Dinner is something different. In terms of the food, you don’t get the same theatre associated with dishes from its 3-starred sister, but you will find superbly cooked cuisine inspired by the very best historical recipes. 

Once you are through the main door, there’s a modern bar and lounge area for you to have a cocktail while you wait for your table.

Since I came on time for the dinner reservation, Princess and I walked straight past two rows of wine cellars as if we were shopping in a vintner.

We were seated right next to the open kitchen that has been enclosed behind clear panels of glass. It was a real treat for me to see all the actions in the preparation of our meals.

And what’s for dinner? This was taken from their menu, “The word “Dinner” comes from 13^th century French word for breakfast, but in Britain it has always been used for the main meal of the day. In medieval times, this meal occurred in the middle of the day and was followed by a much lighter supper before bedtime. Over the centuries, it has got later and later and now means the evening meal. Although in some parts of Britain it still means Lunch! “

The story of Dinner began in the late 90s with Heston Blumenthal’s fascination with historic gastronomy. The savoury ice creams of the late 1800s, the theatre of the Tudor dining experiences and the dishes of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland all resonated with his unique approach to cooking.

I like the idea that you can choose the narrative instead of just listening to babbling from the service staff – from a detail explanation of the dishes that you are eating (“The Maverick”) to a balanced narrative of what you’re eating (“The Guide”) to minimum speech and explore it yourself (“The Explorer”).

After researching 14th century cookbooks such as those by the royal chefs of King Richard II to Lewis Carroll’s flights of fancy; working with food historians, to tapping into the worlds of the British Library in London and the teams at Hampton Court Palace, the home of King Henry VIII in Kew – the very modern dining experience of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal was born.

Amuse Bouche – Frozen Cocktail

Care for an aperitif? How about a delicate mousse dipped into -196°C liquid nitrogen. Clean, crisp, light-as-air and infused with your choice of classic drink; in this case it was Vodka Lime Sour dusted with lime powder. The result of this quick freezing is a refreshing, light as air frozen meringue that kickstart your appetite for the rest of the meal.

This recipe originated from Fat Duck, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year (2024). This frozen aperitif was a wake-up call for the senses, a palate cleanser at the start of the meal. You can pick up the blob and quickly pop it into your mouth before your hand temperature melts the frozen meringue.

Dom Pérignon Grand Cru Vintage 2013

We kicked off the gastronomic evening with some champagne, Dom Perignon Grand Cru Brut Vintage 2013 no less. The nose is delicate, enticing with its richness and complexity. Scents of eucalyptus, pint and vetiver combine harmoniously with fruity notes (mirabelle plum, apricot, orange flower), spices (pepper, cardamom, stick of liquorice) and also iodine and grilled notes. A creamy and airy attack comes before an elegant, precise and silky palate, with a saline and enduring finish.

Sourdough Bread (c.5th-15th Century – Middle Ages)

Made by using ancient British wheat varieties and beer – a nod to the relationship between bakeries and breweries during medieval and Tudor times. In a time where yeast was not readily accessible, bakers sourced leaveners from breweries, like ale barm, to craft their loaves.

Hay Smoked Salmon (c.1730)

Lemon salad, gentleman’s relish & sorrel, caviar

To begin, we savoured the Hay Smoked Salmon, a homage to 18th-century smoking techniques. The recipe of the lemon salad came from “The Complete Practical Cook” by Charles Carter¹ published around the year 1730.

This beautifully presented dish revealed the delicate flavours that make Heston’s creations so unique — the gentle smokiness balanced with freshness, showing how tradition can be elevated through modern culinary finesse. The caviar supplement was a waste of money as it did nothing to enhance the flavours.

There were two wine pairings that we chose for the evening, the Premium selection (all the wines on the left columns) from the supermarket range of good wines, and the Discovery selection that featured organic wines from niche growers.

Meat Fruit (c. 1500)

Mandarin, chicken liver parfait & grilled bread

The inspiration of the dish came from the days when raw fruits were thought to be toxic. In medieval times, all fruit and vegetables were cooked as it was believed that raw fruit and vegetables caused disease. One book from 1500 even warns: “Beware of green salads and raw fruits, for they will make your master sick”.

A real treat to look at and a fine chicken liver parfait filling in a casing of mandarin orange jelly. The effort to get the colour and shape right, including the peel’s perforation and real leaves, is no wonder why this dish is the most instagrammed dish for the evening.

They were quite generous, Princess and I each had one “orange” and slice of toast. The illusion ended when you cut the “orange” in halves to reveal the smooth, creamy parfait inside. We were reminded not to eat the leaves, that’s purely decorative.

The parfait’s silky texture and subtle richness, complemented by the delicate mandarin gel, were both surprising and delightful. Perfect to spread it on that piece of grilled bread, which came with nice, smokey flavours. Princess loved it so much, and was still talking about this dish months after we came home from London. But can we have more toast please?

Frumenty (c. 1390)

Octopus, spelt, smoked sea broth, pickled dulse & lovage

This was the most ancient of recipes on tonight’s dinner dating back to 1390 from “The Forme of Cury” (methods of cooking) by The Master Cook of King Richard II². Frumenty is an old-fashioned dish consisting of hulled wheat cooked in milk seasoned with cinnamon and sugar, very much breakfast oatmeal porridge. But this dish has nothing to do with that recipe.

The octopus was succulent, swimming in a lightly smoked broth with touches of red and green algae. Throughout the centuries a red algae that grows on the northern coasts of the Atlantic Ocean called dulse (l. Palmaria palmata) has always been an important source of fibre in the British Isles and northern Europe, and appeared in the ancient recipe book. Lovage’s flavour and smell is somewhat similar to celery and top chefs use it lately for all their sea fruit dishes.

Lobster Kedgeree (c.1940)

Grilled lobster, rice & curry

The recipe is adopted from “Good Food Dishes” by Ambrose Heath (1940). Kedgeree is a rice and smoked fish dish that originated in colonial India and is now a cherished and popular British recipe. Kedgeree began its life during the time of the British Raj as khichdi—a dish from the Ayurvedic khichari diet that included spices, fried onions, ginger, and lentils. This dish is no kedgeree, the only resemblance is the curry spices used.

The Breton bleu lobster was cooked perfectly, I liked it when it still had that crunch of a crustacean. The Arborio rice was cooked al dente in the lobster stock and finished with heavy cream like in all traditional British cooking. The dish was completed with a drizzling of curry oil. Delightful and delicate, the spices did not cover the sweetness of the seafood. Neither did the cream feel heavy to the palate.

2022 Domaine de Majas Cotes Catalanes Blanc

Hereford Beef (c 1830)

Celeriac, bone marrow & mushroom ketchup

The Hereford beef is prepared using a recipe from the 19th century “The Cook and Housewife’s Manual” by Mistress Meg Dodds (1830). Hereford is a British breed of beef cattle originally from Herefordshire in the West Midlands of England. Hereford beef is often known for its leaner meat and robust flavour, making it a fantastic choice for a range of dishes that benefit from a strong, traditional beef taste.

This high-quality cut of beef was cooked gently to retain its tenderness and juicy flavours. Paired with a traditional mushroom ketchup³, an earthy condiment with a centuries-old history, the dish delivered a depth of umami that enhanced the beef without overpowering it. Came with a quenelle of mashed celeriac that was so creamy and smooth you wished there was more.

Triple Cooked Chips (c. 1993), Heston’s very first recipe.

When Heston invented the Triple-Cooked Chip, he discovered one of the keys to crunchiness was cooking the potatoes till almost falling apart – a tricky process that inevitably involves a few casualties that won’t form into a neat cuboid. I wished McD has fries like these. Paired with their homemade mayonnaise– these ain’t Heinz, way better than the supermarket brand.

Alas, we came to the finale of the meal – the desserts. One has become a classic in Heston Blumenthal’s repertoire of classics, the other was an attempt to reinterpret a 19th century cookbook.

Tipsy Cake (c.1858)

Spit roast pineapple

The recipe came from “The English Cookery Book” by J.H. Walsh (1858)⁴. Buttery brioche dough is left to prove for 4 hours, then baked until a crusty layer forms and finished with Sauternes & brandy cream. Pineapples are dipped in apple caramel before going for 4 hours spit roasting.

The warm, custard-soaked brioche, subtly infused with brandy, was decadent yet balanced. Accompanied by a slice of spit-roasted pineapple, caramelised to juicy, tangy perfection, this dessert was a seamless blend of warmth, sweetness, and a hint of acidity.

Blackberry Tart (c.1800)

Saffron cake, Jersey cream & meadowsweet ice cream

The source of the recipe was “The Complete Confectioner” by Hannah Glasse & Maria Wilson (1800)⁵. The meadowsweet (or elderflower) ice cream has a light, aromatic blossom with a unique flavour and aroma. Inspired by Britain’s 18th-century confectionery tradition, where the increasing availability of sugar made confectionery a fashionable art, elevating confectioners above bakers and cooks. The tiny layer of saffron cake was hidden under the thin sesame wafer. And the sourness from the blackberries, this was a rather strange dessert. Not sure to place it in the basket of like or dislike, it was almost like a palate cleanser.

And to pair with the sweets were two really sweet wines.

Mignardise – Millionaire’s tart

I cannot hide my disappointment when the mignardise was presented, not because it marked the end of the dinner, but there was only one little bite given. It is nicknamed the Millionaire’s tart, as you can see why, has a topping of gold nuggets on a delicious dark chocolate coffee mousse tart. The “gold nuggets'” are bits of meringue covered with gold foil. Yummy, but I was yearning for more.

The food was superb, as you’d expect, the setting is beautiful and the service was surprisingly informal. Dining here is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that showcases the artistry and heritage of British cuisine, brilliantly reimagined. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the magic of history on a plate.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London
66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA.
Tel : +44 (0) 207 201 3844 (Reservations)

Visited Sep 2024

Michelin UK Guide 2 Stars 2014-2024, 1 Star 2012-2013

Footnotes: Sources of the recipes

1. Excerpt from Historic Heston:
   “Historic recipes have many virtues, but lightness isn’t generally one of them; bent on impressing their masters, all professional chefs have often been drawn to something spectacular and substantial.
   So when I came across Charles Carter’s recipe for lemon salad, I was instantly drawn to it.
   Consisting of lemons cut into rings and lightly pickled, it promised to be simple, cleansing and refreshing. I could already picture several dishes in which that little burst of acidity would balance perfectly the richness of other ingredients.”
   *LEMON SALLAD, OR LEMON COMPORT
   “Take the clearest and thickest Rind Lemons, cut them in Halves, and with a sharp-pointed Knife cut out the Pulp, but not too close to the Rind; then slice it round in long Rings into fair Water, and let it lie an Hour or two; then boil it in fair Water till pretty tender and then make a Syrup of half white Wine and half White-wine Vinegar, and boil it up into a Syrup with double-refind Sugar; Send it with other Sallad, that in the Middle, after it has lain four or five Days in the Syrup” Charles Carter, The Complete Practical Cook (1730)* ↩︎
2. ANCIENT COOKERY. A.D. 1381.
   Hic incipiunt universa servicia tam de carnibus quam de pissibus [1].
   I. FOR TO MAKE FURMENTY [1].
   Nym clene Wete and bray it in a morter wel that the holys [2] gon al of and seyt [3] yt til it breste and nym yt up. and lat it kele [4] and nym fayre fresch broth and swete mylk of Almandys or swete mylk of kyne and temper yt al. and nym the yolkys of eyryn [5]. boyle it a lityl and set yt adoun and messe yt forthe wyth fat venyson and fresh moton.
   [1] See again, No. I. of the second part of this treatise. [2] Hulls. [3] Miswritten for seyth or sethe, i.e. seeth. [4] cool. [5] eggs. (1390) “The Forme of Cury” by The Master Cook of King Richard II https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/8102/pg8102-images.html ↩︎
3. CHAP. Vlt. — VEGETABLES AND HOOTSi 7SS Mushrooms are safest wlien picUwl or made into catsup, because they are tlien used unly in small quantities, and their pernicious properties are cor- jected by the acids and spices employed to preserve ihem. When good tliey approach nearer to ani- mal ■ substances than any plant whatever, both in their texture, flavour, anci the gravy with which they abound. Skilful cooks Jiave been known to impose a ragout of muslirooms for a meat ragout, even on practiced epicures ; nor do we know any one flavouring ingredient that the cook could less spare than mushroom catsup. We by no means, therefore, wish to proscribe this delicacy, but to caution our readers not merely against those of suaJ picious quality, but also against consumiDc; many at once, howe\er temptingly they may be dressed. “The Cook and Housewife’s Manual” by Mistress Meg Dodds (1830) https://archive.org/stream/cookandhousewif00johngoog/cookandhousewif00johngoog_djvu.txt ↩︎
4. Tipsy Cake.
   Take a stale sponge-cake of full size, pierce it with holes, making them with a knitting-pin. Four oyer by degrees with a spoon half a pint of raisin-wine and a wine-glass of brandy mixed. When this quantity is soaked up, which will require the wine to be ladled up from the bottom, stick it thickly oyer with blanched almonds cut in points or spikes. Just before it goes to table pour over it a thick custard, or whipped cream Seven or eight sponge biscuits may be boiled up and done the same way, or, by way of variety, the cake may be sliced with preserve spread between each layer, and then finish as above. Tipsy Cake (c.1810) from: The English Cookery book by J H Walsh https://archive.org/details/englishcookeryb00bookgoog/page/n318/mode/2up?view=theater&q=tipsy+cake ↩︎
5. TARTS, CUSTARDS, CHEESE-CAKES, &c.
   An apple tart is made the same way as a pie, but if to be eaten cold, make the short crust; which must be observed with all tarts intended to be eaten cold. If you use tin patties to bake in, butter them, and put a little crust all over them, or you will not be able to take them out; but if you bake them in glass or china, only an upper crust will be necessary, as you will not want, to take them out when sent to table; lay fine sugar at the bottom, then your cherries, plumbs, or whatever you may want to put in them, and put sugar at the top. Currants and raspberries make an exceeding good tart, and do not require much baking. Cherries require but little baking; gooseberries, to look red, must stand a good while in the oven. Apricots, if green, require more baking than when ripe; quarter or halve ripe apricots, and put in some of the kernels. Preserved fruit, as damascenes and bullace, require but little baking; fruit that is preserved high should not be baked at all; but the crust should first be baked upon a tin the size the tart is to be; cut it with a marking-iron, or not, and when cold, take it off, and lay it on the fruit. Apples and pears intended to be put into tarts must be pared, cut into quarters, and cored; cut the quarters across again, set them on in a saucepan with as much water as will barely cover them, and let them simmer on a slow fire just till the fruit is tender; put a good piece of lemon peel into the water with the fruit, and then have your patties ready; lay fine sugar at bottom, then your fruit, and a little sugar at top; pour over each tart a tea-spoonful of the liquor they were boiled in; then put on your lid, and bake them in a slack oven. Apricot tarts may be made in the same manner, observing that you must not put in any lemon juice. “The Complete Confectioner” by Hannah Glasse & Maria Wilson (1800) https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Complete_Confectioner_(1800)/Tarts ↩︎

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