Garum @ Perth

The à la carte buffet breakfast in this restaurant of the Westin Perth is amazing. But this was the first time I had dinner at Garum.

Garum is a Roman-Italian osteria, a collaboration between executive chef Guy Grossi and The Westin Perth, housed In the stunning surrounds of historic Hibernian Hall in the Perth CBD. The name originates from garum, a Roman fish sauce made by salting and fermenting fish in small clay jugs or vessels, commonly used throughout ancient Roman cooking.

Celebrated Aussie Italian chef Guy Grossi, famous for his cook books, appearances on Masterchef, and fine Melbourne osterias, has curated a menu of very interesting pasta dishes made from scratch.

Pane

Roman sourdough, moretum

Moretum is an herb cheese spread that the Ancient Romans ate with bread. A typical moretum was made of herbs, fresh cheese, salt, oil, and vinegar. Acquired taste the moretum is, and the extra virgin olive oil is slightly bitter. I asked for some butter. Still not a fan of sourdough.

Ostricha

Oyster, red wine, shallot

I didn’t know oysters sounded like ostriches in Italian. These are freshly shucked Pacific oysters served with chopped shallots in red wine vinegar.

Fior di Zucca

Zucchini flowers, ricotta, lemon, zucchini trifolati

Zucchini blossoms are a ritual of summer, a passage of time. Fried zucchini flowers or Fiori di Zucca Fritti are usually stuffed with cheese, anchovies, or simply fried. Like any other Italian dish, each family has its own way of preparing these delicate pockets of deliciousness. Placed on a bed of slightly pickled cucumbers, these were delicious appetisers.

Fazzoletti Neri

Guazzetto, frutti di mare

Guazzetti are sauces made by slowly simmering meat, game, or poultry in stock, creating a velvety texture that coats pasta wonderfully. This fabulous fazzoletti neri, or black handkerchief pasta, with cuttlefish, clams, prawns and chilli is simple and delicious.

“Nero” is likely a reference to the Roman Emperor of the same name. It also might be a reference to Nero di Seppia (squid ink). Ever since I had my first risotto nero in Venice, I have ordered anything that comes in squid ink. The glossy, black ink lends a briny, even earthy flavour to the pasta. While it may seem like an expensive or superfluous ingredient to some now, squid ink is used in dishes that actually characterises the poor peasant cuisine or Cucina povera.

The ambiance is so modern and chilled. The staff are great and the food is of such high quality that it is literally faultless. I would have liked to have seen some more daring entrees, most of the offerings on the menu are very safe bets. Garum is also great for solo diners, as the portions are not too big, and the appetisers are mostly one bites. Will come again the next time I am in Perth.

Garum
Hibernian Place, 480 Hay Street, Perth, WA, 6000 Australia
Tel : +61 8 6559 1870 (Reservations)

Visited Feb 2025