Tonari 邻家 @ Shanghai

Gubei 古北 in Shanghai started as a community of Japanese (and Taiwanese), and attracted a lot of Japanese restaurants to setup shop there. Many of which are as good as it gets here in Shanghai.

Tonari Japanese Cuisine is an izakaya that has a following of Japanese expatriates that come here afterwork to catch up and watch some local sports or news, and have a quick meal as well.

Yumi is the Okami-san 女将さん and her story is quite typical of a hardworking lady making it in Shanghai. She is not a native of Shanghai (she is from nearby Zhejiang) and has been working in restaurants as a waitress where she picked up her Japanese. And the peak of her business, she owned three restaurants in Shanghai. Covid reset everything and she is now back to her original shop.

Yumi shared about the heydays when the place was packed with Japanese expats but nowadays, many have gone back. At the other private room, they were having a farewell party – another one going home soon.

Otoshi – whelk and clams

First up, the customary otoshi that is served as cover charge for a seat in an izakaya – whelk meat with wakame in a sweet sesame wasabi sauce and clams in a similar but spicy sauce.

Sashimi 刺身 – Norwegian salmon 鮭 and local sea bream 鯛

China has lifted partially the ban for Japanese seafood, but it’s still not possible to get the usual shipment from Toyosu. Salmon used for sashimi is definitely from Norway, while the sea bream would almost be local farmed variety. Special aqua farming methods have been developed to get them sashimi grade, so while it is safe to eat, it is quite tasteless.

Basashi 馬刺し – raw horse meat

Basashi 馬刺し, also called “sakura niku” or “cherry blossom meat”, is a sashimi dish consisting of thinly sliced raw horse meat. Basashi is often served with sliced onions, grated ginger, and wasabi, and is typically dipped in a sweet soy sauce or sesame oil. Basashi was served cold (near-frozen in the middle) and was intended to be eaten this way. And this was only the third time I had this in Shanghai.

Wafu salad 和風サラダ – with Japanese sesame dressing

Sautéed shredded potato and jalapeño

This is not a Japanese dish but a household favourite in China. My host had it before in this shop and insisted they make it again for me. Sautéed shredded potato is a simple yet satisfying side dish that pairs well with drinks. The potatoes in this dish are rinsed to remove some of the starch. They are cooked slightly to a crunchy texture, then mixed with spicy chilli peppers, powerful black vinegar, and a touch of sugar.

Stir-fry sliced pork belly with yellow bell peppers

Grilled hamachi (yellowtail) collar カマ塩焼き

Hamachi kama はまちのカマ, aka grilled yellowtail collar, is a flavourful broiled fish, using the fattiest part of the fish, making it naturally juicy. All you need is salt, and grilled it to a nice, dry, crisp.

Chicken nanban チキン南蛮

Nanban is a Japanese word meaning “southern barbarians.” It was used in reference to Europeans, who would sail from the south to reach Japan. Inspired by Portuguese cuisine, chicken nanban is crispy chicken (karaage) dressed with a tangy sauce and served with homemade tartar sauce. Nothing barbaric about this wonderful snack.

Himono 干物

Himono 干物 refers to fish that has been salted and dried under the sun. This age-old preservation method dates back to ancient times when refrigeration was unavailable. Drying fish not only extends its shelf life but also enhances its flavour, giving it a more concentrated taste that many find irresistible. The grilling brings out a deliciously smoky flavour, and the crispy skin contrasts perfectly with the tender flesh.

Sautéed fava beans

Fava beans, or broad beans, have a buttery and nutty taste. Great snack for drinks and casual chit-chats

Chinese toon fried eggs 香椿炒鸡蛋

This is another household favourite, using a harvested shoot called Chinese toon. It’s a popular springtime dish in China, utilising the unique flavour of the young toon shoots. The toon is blanched in boiling water to remove traces of arsenic and then incorporated into an omelette. Delicious.

Dried hotaru ika (firefly squid) ホタルイカの素干し

I love Hotaru ika (firefly squid), a specialty from Toyama 富山 that is only available during spring when these squids mysteriously wash themselves onto the bay. This is the first time I tried these dried Hotaru ika and I love it! Salty and packed with intense flavour, the drying process concentrated the umami and fragrance. The tip is a little soft and not completely dry. As you chew this part in your mouth, the slight bitter flavour overwhelms your palate with a unique taste.

Tonkatsu with sauce 豚カツ

Just like the Shanghai pork cutlet needs the Worcestershire sauce, Japanese tonkatsu cannot be missing its signature sauce. The tonkatsu sauce とんかつソース is a popular Japanese condiment that’s traditionally made from fruits and vegetables like tomatoes, prunes, and apples, plus soy sauce, vinegar, and Asian spices. It’s simmered down to a glaze consistency that’s much like a thick and rich Japanese version of Worcestershire sauce. Its tangy, umami flavour lends well to breaded and fried foods, like this tonkatsu.

Sukiyaki with Australia MB9+ wagyu sirloin

Instead of the rarely seen in China Japanese wagyu beef, they served the Australian MB9+ “wagyu” which is really not a 1-1 replacement.

The wagyu is cooked in the same way, with a sweet sukiyaki sauce, but the beef was obviously many notches below the Japanese beef, even though it was the highest MB9+ available for Australian beef in terms of marbling.

After enjoying the beef, there’s the vegetables and tofu, which were really nice too.

Unagi maki 鰻巻き

Unagi maki 鰻巻き, or sushi rice roll with eel glazed with a sweet and savoury sauce, is an izakaya favourite. Another variation that is popular in izakaya is the Umaki うまき, in which the eel is rolled in an egg omelette. Unfortunately it is not available here.

Shiokara ika 塩辛いか

A popular accompaniment to alcohol, shiokara 塩辛 is made from the meat of a variety of fish and other seafood such as squid, oysters, shrimp and sea urchin roe in a thick brown paste. The paste is made by salting the internal organs of the seafood and fermenting them with malted rice. I love shiokara ika 塩辛いか to go with the final rice dish, be it a rice ball or a meshi.

Mapodofu 麻婆豆腐

Japanese Mapodofu 麻婆豆腐 is slightly different from the Szechuan, being much less spicy. Here, they did not try to serve the Japanese version but the Szechuan one. Made my eyes watered. Lucky I had the shiokara on standby.

Really friendly staff, a wonderful host, and good Japanese food with some home cooked Chinese dishes if you asked. It’s like going to your neighbour for dinner.

Tonari “Neighbourhood” Japanese Cuisine 邻家日料店 和み処 となり家
No. 1, Lane 19, Ronghua East Road, Changning District, Shanghai 上海市长宁区荣华东道19弄1号
Tel : +86 (021) 6271 7239 / 13764176601

Visited Apr 2025