If you have only one day in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, most locals will recommend that you visit Jinci Temple at the foot of Xuanweng Mountain 悬瓮山 at the Jin Springs. It was founded about 1,400 years ago and expanded during the following centuries, resulting in a diverse collection of more than 100 sculptures, buildings, terraces, and bridges.
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The special series about Jinci Temple comes in three parts – the first part “The Origin and Highlights” will give an overview of its origins and the main attractions; part two “Artistic and Cultural Treasures” will dwell on the details of the Song and Yuan dynasties’ sculptures; part three “Expansions” will examine some of the newer attractions built as part of the tourist attraction.
晋祠特別系列分為三部分——第一部分「起源和亮點」將概述其起源和“三绝、三宝、三匾”；第二部分「藝術文化寶藏」將重點介紹宋朝和元代彩塑的細節；第三部分「擴充」將介绍晋祠風景区的其他建筑和新景點。
Table of Contents for Part 1
Origin of Jinci Temple 晋祠之源
Jinci Temple 晉祠 was originally named Tang Shu Yu Temple 唐叔虞祠, which was built to commemorate Shu Yu 叔虞, the son of King Wu of the Zhou 周武王. It began in the Western Zhou Dynasty, was conceived in the Northern Dynasty, developed in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, matured in the Northern Song Dynasty, and expanded in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is an architectural timeline that records the history of Taiyuan in a single place.1
The Jinci Temple features an impressive array of cultural relics, including 98 ancient buildings, 114 sculptures, 19 cast iron pieces, extensive murals, ornate plaques, exquisite stone carvings, and a collection of nearly 41,000 artifacts. It also has 122 ancient trees, with 29 dating over a thousand years. This temple is notable for being the largest and best-preserved Tang and Song temple-style classical garden in China, earning it recognition as an ancient Chinese architecture museum.
Beginning – Eastern Zhou to Sui Dynasty 东周晉侯燮到隋文帝杨坚
Hall of the Shuyu of Tang Shrine Complex (Yuan dynasty)
Ji Yu 姬虞, brother of King Cheng of Zhou 周成王, was conferred the Marquis of Tang and was hence was called Tang Shu Yu 唐叔虞 by historians (Tang – conferred land; Shu – third son; Yu – his given name). His son, Xie 夑 succeeded to his father’s honours and changed his State name to Jin because it was next to Jin River. Therefore, later people used to call it Jinci Temple (“Ci” 祠 is Chinese for “Temple”, so calling it Jinci Temple is like Jin “Temple” Temple, so I will refer to it as Jinci henceforth). After that all the imperial dynasties all rebuilt and expanded Jinci.
Sarira Reproduction Pagoda (Sui Dynasty)
During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Northern Qi Emperor Wenxuan Gaoyang (r. 550-559) overthrew the Eastern Wei Dynasty, and designated Jinyang as a separate capital. During his reign, Jinci was expanded. During Kaihuang period (581-600) of the Sui, the Sarira Reproduction Pagoda 舍利生生塔 was built in the southwest of Jinci.
Maturity – Tang to Northern Song 唐太宗至宋仁宗
On the 20th year of Tang Emperor Taizong’s reign (646), Li Shimin 李世民 visited Jinci, where he wrote the “Inscription on Preface of Jinci” 《晉祠之銘並序》and expanded the temple. During the Song Dynasty, Jinci underwent significant reconstruction, including the destruction of the Tang Shu Yu temple, and a stele was erected to mark this renovation. Later, Song Emperor Renzong 宋仁宗 posthumously ennobled Tang Shu Yu as the King of Fendong 汾東王 and constructed a large Hall of the Sacred Mother in memory of Tang Shu Yu’s mother, Yi Jiang 邑姜.2
Three Wonders, Three Treasures, Three Plaques “三绝、三宝、三匾”
If you are short of time to visit Jinci (which will take half a day if you want to see everything in relative detail), the Three Wonders 三絕, Three Treasures 三寶, and Three Plaques 三匾 along the main walking line in the middle are not to be missed.
The Three Wonders 三绝
The Three Wonders of Jinci Temple are an ancient Zhou dynasty cypress tree, colourful sculptures from Song dynasty and the Nanlao Spring. The cypress survived 3,000 years of war and peace since the Western Zhou Dynasty. The 43 colourful sculptures of the Song Dynasty in the Hall of the Sacred Lady showed the realistic style of the court figures of the Northern Song Dynasty. Nanlao Spring, aka “Never Age” Spring, is the main source of the Jin River.
3000 Year Old Cypress 古柏齐年 周柏
This ancient cypress tree (Calocedrus macrolepis) from Western Zhou dynasty (11th cent. – 770 BC) bears witness to the 3000 year old history of Jinci Temple. The 18m cypress grows sideways towards the south on the right side of the Hall of the Sacred Mother. It is supported by another ancient cypress. Its canopy covers the roof of the hall and the trunk is thick that it a few people to circle it. It is like a dragon lying horizontally, so it is nicknamed the “Sleeping Dragon Cypress” 臥龍柏.
According to carbon-14 dating, this tree is almost 3,000 years old. In the Jinci Temple ground, there are more than 20 trees comprising of Cangsong, Chinese weeping cypress (Cupressus funebris), Chinese scholar tree (Styphnolobium japonicum), etc., which are more than a thousand years old. Together with the ancient cypress, they witness the leisurely history of the Jin Temple. The tree is designated a National Treasure for protection in 2025
Song Dynasty Painted Female Courtiers Statues 宋彩塑侍女像
The colourful statues of maids in the Song Dynasty broke through the model of religious statues before the Song Dynasty and became a portrait of real people in real life. They were arranged according to the court system of feudal society. and represented the epitome of the royal life of the Song Dynasty, showing the images of women of different ages and personalities.
In the Hall of the Sacred Mother, there are 41 vibrant sculptures from the Song Dynasty, particularly highlighting 33 maid statues that vary in shape and age, each displaying unique expressions and poses that reflect diverse moods and traits.
The 33 maiden statures were all beautiful, dashing and lifelike, and a watershed moment of religious sculptures from imposing imaginary figures to realistic works of sculpture art. Including the Scared Mother, who is enshrined in the main seat of the hall, is not covered by the aura of a goddess. She is just a dignified beautiful woman, sitting cross-legged in the centre of the hall, looking demure.
Each one is different, a masterpiece on its own right
Liu Kaigu 劉開渠, Chinese modern sculpture master once remarked, “They are one of the greatest sculptures in the world’s history, treasure in Chinese sculpture arts, definitely having an important position in the history of Chinese sculptures and arts.”. The statues are considered one of Jinci’s three wonders.3
“Never Age” Spring 难老泉
Nanlao “Never Age” Spring 难老泉 gushed out of the rocks about 5m underground. The crystal clear water temperature is maintained at 17˚C all year round. The name of the spring “难老” (lit. “Difficult to Age”) is taken from the famous phrase in “Book of Songs : Extolment Of Lu”, “Pan Shui”《詩經·魯頌·泮水》, “He is drinking the good spirits; And may there be given him the old age that is seldom enjoyed!”
Nanlao spring water has irrigated thousands of acres of good paddy fields around Jinci for generations, creating “thousands of paddy fields just like south of the Yangtze River”. Because the spring water contains a variety of minerals, the water temperature is constant, and the water quality is excellent, Jinci rice cultivated is clear, full, and mellow with great aftertaste.
However the spring stopped flowing beginning in late last century. It started with the two springs of Yushan 鱼沼 and Shanli 善利 dried up in May 1972, and the “Never Age” Spring was completely cut off at the end of April 1994. An old man in Jinci Village said, “Rice is generally not grown in the north, but Jinci rice can be harvested once a year, which used to be a tribute rice to the emperor.” When he was young, water would seep out as long as he put a shovel into the ground, but now the village had to use tap water, and the rice production has been greatly reduced. 4
Since 1994, through water source replacement, coal mining improvement and other measures, natural outflow and surge were restored in May 2023, and the water level in 2025 was 1.39 metres higher than the spring mouth. 5
The Water Goddess Legend “柳氏坐瓮，饮马抽鞭”
Water Goddess Tower “Overflowing from Xuanweng” plaque
There is a folk legend about a woman surnamed Liu in Jinsheng Village, in the north of Jinci, who was married to Gutang Village. She asked by her mother-in-law to go far away to fetch water every day. One day, she met an old man on a horse and begging her for water. Although she picked up the water from a distance, the kind Liu still gave it to the old man to drink. When the old man was about to leave, he gave Liu a whip, saying that as long as she inserted the whip into the urn, it would fill up whenever she raised the whip.
难老泉亭内的一面牌匾–“晋阳第一泉”
Liu tried it after she got home, and it was indeed so. Later, the mother-in-law found that the daughter-in-law no longer fetched water, but the water in the urn was always full. She couldn’t help but have doubts in her heart. She secretly inspected while her daughter-in-law was not at home. She found the whip in the urn. She thought it was a treasure and took the whip out of the urn. Water immediately gushed out and flooded everywhere.
Liu, who was back at her mother’s house, found that the water was gushing out and quickly ran home. Seeing that the water was too difficult to block, she hurriedly covered the urn with the stone slate from the yard and sat on it. The surging water suddenly turned into a gurgling stream and kept flowing out from below. In order to commemorate this kind woman, posterity called her the Water Goddess. The Water Goddess Tower 水母樓 was built on the west side of Nanlao Spring, and her image was made into a statue and placed there. 6
The Three Treasures 三宝
These three architectural marvels avoided centuries of war and destructions. While many of the other buildings in the compound are reconstructed during the Ming and Qing dynasties, these three came from Song and Yuan dynasties
Hall of the Sacred Mother 圣母殿
Hall of the Sacred Mother
The Hall of the Sacred Mother 圣母殿 is an architectural masterpiece of the Song Dynasty (960-1279). This is currently the main hall of the Jinci Temple, which was built in the Tiansheng period of the Northern Song Dynasty 北宋天圣年间 (1023-1032). The hall is seven rooms wide and six rooms deep, with double eaves gable and hip roof 重檐歇山頂 decorated with yellow-green glazed tiles.
The hall followed the “Standards and models for architecture” written in the Northern Song Dynasty. Yingzao fashi 《營造法式》or “Standards and models for architecture” (1103) is China’s oldest and most richly illustrated treatise on the architecture of state-owned buildings. It was compiled by the Northern Song period 北宋 (960-1126) Director of the Palace Buildings 將作監少監, Li Jie 李誡 (1035-1110) on imperial order and completed in 1100 and published in 1103.7 , 8
The hall, approximately five stories high (19m), is constructed entirely of wood and tiles, utilising tenons and holes for fastening instead of iron. It spans the size of four basketball courts and features around 30 wooden pillars supporting its grand cornice. The “column reduction method”（“減柱法”） ensures no pillars are within the hall, as weight is transferred to the border pillars via complex wood tenons.
Dragon with the V sign
Main plaque on the entrance outside the hall
Dragon with the Thumbs-up
On each of the eight front pillars is a wood-carved dragon twining around it, and every dragon has its own body gesture and designs. The height of the pillars varies, with the middle ones slightly shorter than the side ones, and all of the 30 pillars tilt slightly at their heads in the direction of the hall’s centre point, forming a stable frame. For more than 1,000 years, the hall has remained sturdy even after suffering dozens of earthquakes.
Destruction of Jinyang and the Sacred Mother “顽民尽迁高垒削，秋草自绿埋空垣”
Late at night on 5 May 979 (北宋太平兴国四年), Liu Jiyuan 刘继元, the last emperor of the Northern Han Dynasty, who was trapped in Jinyang, the capital of the country, surrendered, and the last of the five dynasties and ten kingdoms came to an end. Four days after the opening of the city (on the tenth), Emperor Taizong of the Song Dynasty, Zhao Guangyi 赵光义, ordered to “destroy the old city of Taiyuan and change it to Pingjin County. In April of the following year, Emperor Taizong ordered again, to redirect “the waters of Fen River and Jin River to flood to the ancient city of Taiyuan”. ( Volume 20 of “Extended Continuation to Zizhi Tongjian” 《续资治通鉴长编》卷二〇)
When Zhao Guangyi burnt Jinyang, Jinci in the western suburbs was also destroyed. In addition to Tang Shu Yu, a new “goddess” appeared in the gods worshipped in Jinci, which was rebuilt by the officials of the Northern Song Dynasty. Since the reign of Emperor Renzong, the Sacred Mother has become the main goddess of the Jinci.
According to the traditional customs of the Jinyuan area, the Sacred Mother will travel from the 4th to the 14th day of the seventh month of the Lunar calendar to her temples in Jinyuan (built on the ruins of the ancient city of Jinyang) for worship. However, the rules when entering the Jiulong Temple are special. The sedan chair must be backwards, and the Sacred Mother must enter the temple with her face turned back or else the sedan chair pole will be broken.
The Jiulong Temple stage built on the ruins of Jinyang Palace (1147)
In this regard, the interpretation of anthropologist Zhang Yahui is reverieful: “No matter who the Sacred Mother of Jiulong is, the original construction of this temple is related to the local people’s nostalgia for the ancient city of Jinyang before the Song Dynasty. The fact that the Sacred Mother fell off her sedan in the Jiulong Temple also shows that she did have some guilt for Jinyang.” ( “Water Virtue Matching Heaven: The History and Morality of a Water Conservancy Society in Jinzhong”) 9
Flying Bridge across Fish Pond 鱼沼飞梁
It is unknown when such a bridge type was created but its earliest record is seen in the Commentary on the Water Classic 《水经注》 compiled by Li Daoyuan 酈道元during the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD). The existing one was built in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD). The stone bridge crosses over the Yuzhao Spring 魚沼泉 that is the second spring source of Jinshui River.
It has a cruciform surface, which is flat from east to west and bent on the south and north wings, looking like a bird to take off. According to Liang Sicheng, such a bridge is occasionally depicted by ancient Chinese paintings but the real one is only found here. It is regarded as one of the three national treasure buildings of Jinci.10
Between the stone pillars and the bridge slate is thick wood of a special kind, like railway sleepers, that ensures all the space is effectively filled in, and prevents the effects of humidity’s on the contact surfaces between stones.
On the end of the bridge is the Hall of the Sacred Mother. The main hall is dedicated to Yi Jiang, the mother of Tang Shu Yu, the daughter of Jiang Ziya, and the wife of King Wu of Zhou. It is also said that it’s not Yi Jiang but the Water Goddess that is enshrined, or as the legend goes, Yi Jiang is the Water Goddess. Then why is there a separate Water Goddess Tower? Nevertheless her status is more noble than that of the Marquis of Jin and therefore in view of filial piety, it seems that the descendants should rebuild the Jinci and worship Yi Jiang as the supreme.
Offerings Hall 献殿
献殿前面的對越坊和两侧的鼓楼、钟楼
The Offering Hall is a pavilion-like hall that is used to shelter offerings to the Sacred Mother and built in 1168 during the Dading Period of the Jin Dynasty (266–420) 金大定八年. It underwent rebuilding in 1594, during Wanli reign in Ming dynasty.
The hall is 9.75m tall. Its beam frame is material-saving and sturdy, and the arch structure is sparse.It was built to place offerings to ancestors or gods and is three bays in width and two bays in depth with four-sided sill walls and gratings.
According to Liang Sicheng, who is considered father of Chinese modern architecture, “its beam is simple but light, consuming adequate amount of timber, thus it is durable. The whole design looks quite smart and bold.” With record of the earliest building year among offerings halls in China, it is one of the three nationally treasured structures.11
The Three Plaques 三匾
A plaque is a sign (usually a wooden board) with words written on it, hanging directly above the hall, pavilion, courtyard and garden gate, usually indicating the name of the building. Besides names, Jinci has many plaques “left behind” by generations of royalties and litterateurs, each trying to leave their mark in the long history of Jinci. 12
“Difficult to Get Old” 難老
The plaque on Pavilion of Never Age Spring 难老泉亭 is 1.45m long, 0.7m wide, and is the calligraphic work of end-Ming, early-Qing philosopher, litterateur, calligrapher, poet, doctor and painter Fu Shan. Mao Zedong has also written a poem with these words, “”Man ages all too easily, but not nature; the Double Ninth comes every year.”13, 14
Fu Shan 傅山 (1607-1684), courtesy name Qingzhu (青竹, lit. “Green Bamboo”) which was later changed to Qingzhu 青主 was a secluded scholar after the end of Ming dynasty who refused to serve under the new regime. He was jailed for refusing to take Imperial Exams in 1678, but was eventually released. Great calligrapher apt in Kai, Li, Cursive, etc, and especially known for his cursive. He is also accredited for the Taiyuan specialty dish, Tounao 頭腦, and his name was used for a fictional pugilistic master in 《七剑下天山》by Liang Yusheng 梁羽生 set in the same period. 15, 16
“Giving Praise” 對越
It was built in 1576 during 4th Year of Wanli period of the Ming dynasty. The characters Dui 對 and Yue 越 are quoted from “The Book of Songs: Extolment of Zhou” 《詩經•周頌》. Dui means reciprocation while Yue means promotion. Together they refer to reciprocating and promoting the merits of the sacred mother.
It is said that the Duiyue plaque is written by Gao Yingyuan 高應元, calligrapher and juren of Taiyuan County during the Ming Dynasty. This calligraphy has powerful touches as if a lofty and rugged mountain which is hard to measure the height so it is praised as magnificent handwriting. It is also one of the three famous plaques in Jinci.17
“Stage of the Reflecting Waters” 水鏡台
The Mirror’s Stage 水鏡台 is an ancient theatre stage. The name “Water Mirror” “水镜” is taken from the Book of Han 《汉书》, “Clear water is like a mirror, there’s no hiding”. It tells the story of the debate between Han Anguo and Wang Hui during the “Siege of Mayi”. At that time, the Xiongnu were disturbing the border, and Han Emperor Wu intended to ambush the Xiongnu in the Mayi area. At that time, Han Anguo advocated peace while Wang Hui advocated war. The two had contradictory views and debated in front of the Emperor Wu. It means that everyone knows the good and evil of the world, loyalty and treachery. This plaque was written by a Qing imperial scholar during Qianlong reign, Yang Eryou 杨二酉 (1705-1780). The calligraphy is beautiful and the brushwork is vigourous.18
It is often mistaken that this is the front of the stage as this what we first observed as we walk into the garden. This, in fact, is the backstage where the actors and performers change. The plaque “Famous Springs of the Three Jins” “三晋名泉”, written by Qing Kangxi reign military scholar Yang Tinghan 杨廷翰, represents the period in Eastern Zhou when Jin was split into three states (Han, Zhao and Wei). The springs refer to the three springs in Jinci – Immortal Spring 难老泉, Sanli Spring 善利泉 and Fish Pond Spring 鱼沼泉. 19
It is used as a performing stage and is still used today for temple activities. The acoustics of the stage is projected using 8 water urns acting as loudspeakers. It is interesting to note that Yang Tinghan is the uncle of Yang Eryou, and both are honoured with plaques written by them on each side of the stage.20
It was mentioned, for a look at Chinese history, look at Shenzhen for the last decade, Shanghai for the last century, Beijing for last millennium, Shaanxi for three thousand years, and Shanxi for five thousand years. At that time, I didn’t believe it, but the trip to Jinci gave me a new understanding and perception of it!
About Jinci Temple 晋祠简介
晋祠，原名为晋王祠，初名唐叔虞祠，是为祭祀周朝晋国的开国诸侯唐叔虞及其母亲邑姜所建，是中国现存最早的皇家祭祀园林。祠内的周柏、难老泉、宋塑侍女像被誉为“晋祠三绝”，圣母殿、鱼沼飞梁、献殿则被誉为“晋祠三宝”。
晋祠最早为封地在今山西翼城的唐叔虞宗族支系所建的唐叔虞祠，最早可见的文献记载则是在北魏年间，以后数代多有增修补缮。北宋年间，宋太宗赵光义火烧晋阳城后，宋仁宗赵祯追封唐叔虞为汾东王，并为唐叔虞之母邑姜修建了规模宏大的圣母殿。之后数代，以圣母殿为主体的中轴线建筑物次第告成，逐渐形成了今日晋祠的建筑格局。
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