Muir Woods National Monument

Muir Woods National Monument is a fantastic place to see redwood trees right near San Francisco.

For openers, coast redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) can have a base width of 22 feet and grow to a height of 380 feet. They are the tallest living things on Earth! When they start out, they are just little guys. Redwood cones are less than an inch across, with seeds no bigger than a tomato’s. Exactly why the redwoods grow so tall is a mystery. Theories continue to develop, but proof remains elusive.

Several bridges cross Redwood Creek, which flows through the park year-round. Wildlife residents include the endangered coho salmon fingerlings, Pacific wren, woodpeckers, owls, deer, chipmunks, skunks, river otters, and squirrels to name a few.

Family Circles

Hundreds of years ago a single large redwood grew here. Then disaster struck. The trunk of the large redwood was killed, perhaps by repeated and severe wildfire. From here you can see the original tree trunk still standing upright, now a dead and blackened snag.

Despite such terrible damage, the tree did not die. Below the ground, its massive root system was full of vitality.

Before long, hundreds of young, bright-green burl sprouts began to come up around the circle formed by the root crown of the original tree. Some of those sprouts have grown into the full-sized trees that today stand in a circle around the original trunk.

Large burls have formed on the trunks; of the trees before you, and fresh green sprouts are growing up from burls on the trees’ massive root systems. These features reflect the ability of redwoods,, unlike most other trees, to reproduce not only from seed but also directly from their own burl growth. Even redwood logs lying on the forest floor are apt to sprout long after the parent tree has fallen.

Bohemian Grove Trail

Bohemian Grove is easy to access, and a paved trail will lead visitors across Bridge 1, where the coastal redwoods quickly differentiate themselves from the surrounding Douglas Fir. Flaky bark with deep grooves, straight trunks, and flat needles characterise these trees as much as their incredible size does.

The Bohemian Grove was named after The Bohemian Club. It’s all-male membership includes artists and musicians, as well as many prominent business leaders, government officials, former U.S. presidents, senior media executives, and people of power.

This trail also has a tree you can walk into the middle of, which is fun. Some of the trees are split on the bottom, making for selfies “inside the redwood.” 

Cathedral Grove

Cathedral Grove is a silent preserve and home to the tallest, oldest redwoods at Muir Woods. Consider quiet contemplation as you make your way through this part of the woods.

Aside from logging, the most frequent cause of death for mature redwoods is windfall, because redwood roots only grow 10 to 13 feet below the ground. The roots spread outward 60 to 80 feet and interlace with those of their nearby tree friends. Individually, they are unable to support themselves, but together, they are strong enough to hold each other up.

Muir Woods can make you humble. It’s not just the size of these enormous trees, at nearly 300 feet tall, that is difficult to document in a photograph. Or how the trees soar into space like a green cathedral.

Rehabilitating the Coho Salmon

Decades of research have taught us that the biggest threat to the survival of Redwood Creek’s coho salmon is a lack of good stream habitat for young fish. Part of the problem is that in the 1930s, some of the creek was lined with rock to stabilise its banks. 

Fish – especially young salmon – need bends, pools with slow flow, and logs with pile-ups of small branches in which to shelter and feed. Slowing down the creek’s flow and creating still pools may help increase groundwater levels in the creek and nearby forest. This will be especially important during times of drought as our climate changes.

Over time, the natural movement of water will finish the job of transforming Redwood Creek from its current hardened state to a more complex, natural, and healthy stream ecosystem with lots of deep pools and cover for young coho salmon.

Sensitive Habitat

When Muir Woods National Monument was established in 1908, over 80% of California’s old growth coast redwoods were alive. By the end of WWII, half had escaped logging. By the end of the 1950s, 10% of old growth was left. Today, 5% of the original range of old growth coast redwood trees remains. 

Muir Woods provides a time capsule to the past, a fragmented image of what used to be. It can also provide a place to learn from our past extraction of natural resources. We can use the history to help us think critically about how to interact with nature in the future.

Many logs have a green coat of moss, while ferns and other verdant bushes cover the ground. Despite the vegetation, you will find that the woods lack the usual bugs and other pesky insects. This is because red wood gives out a natural insecticide making the woods unpleasant for insects, snakes and other pesky creatures found in normal forests.

It’s a scientific fact that even a short 15 minute walk in nature has profound mental and physical benefits.  It helps keep you fit, resets your brain, boosts creativity, and lowers your propensity for depression.  

The paved trail allows visitors to look around and above without fear of obstacles, and the shaded area is tranquil and quiet. Ferns, nurse logs, and seedlings can be seen in the area, making regeneration visible to all.

Take a few moments to appreciate each individual tree, and to consider the vast amount of history that these trees have outlived. Many of the trees within Muir Woods are between 600 and 800 years old, and the oldest tree in the monument is a staggering 1,200 years of age! Though these trees seem old on a human scale, they’re really only entering middle age. Coastal Redwoods can live to be 2,200 years old if left in peace.

The history of Muir Woods is also interesting, both for the struggle to preserve it and because the founding members of the UN met there on May 19, 1945. The meeting was held “to honor the memory of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, thirty-first President of the United States, Chief Architect of the United Nations and apostle of lasting peace for all mankind.” FDR had died of a stroke in April 1945.

Muir Woods is open every day of the year but operating hours vary according to season and weather conditions, check the website before going. Also parking on site is limited and requires prior booking at their website. I strong recommend joining a tour as they have concessions to bring and fetch the visitors, but the visit is limited to 1.5 hours.

Some say fall (August-October) is the best weather of the year. From late October to early May expect rain. Summer months (June-August) can be warmer but it is generally cool and dry. Expect heavy fog in the morning, burning off in the afternoon.

Muir Woods National Monument
Mill Valley, CA 94941, United States
Tel : +1 415-561-2850

Visited Apr 2024