Kitaohji Saryo 北大路 茶寮 @ Shinagawa

Kitaohji shares its name with a famous personality that defined the Japanese culinary genre called washoku. But that as much associated with the reverent Kitaōji Rosanjin 北大路 魯山人 (1883–1959), the modern Renaissance man.

“Cooking is not something to taste with just your tongue, but to enjoy the harmony between beauty and flavour”.

北大路魯山人 Kitaoji Rosanjin (1883-1959)

For a quick introduction to Japanese fine dining, Kitaohji would be a good starting point. With an all private-suite arrangement, this is often my favourite business meeting place with my Japanese associates.

A special kaiseki course prepared by Executive Chef Toyoshima Asuka 調理長 豊嶋 飛鳥 with a refreshing taste of summer, pike conger eel 鱧 and Japanese black beef 黒毛和牛 were featured on the menu.

【前菜】Appetizers

The Zenzai course featured seasonal small bites using ingredients from the summer season. This course was prepared way ahead of time, so everything came at room temperature.

Barracuda sushi, Sweet potato in sugar syrup, Edamame fish cake, Mizuna greens with soy sauce, Corn tofu, Parboiled conger eel, and Japanese omelet 焼カマス小袖寿司、新丸十蜜煮、枝豆真薯、水菜お浸し、とうもろこし豆腐、湯引き鱧、野菜袱紗玉子

I was surprised how much repeated items were in this box from the meal I had in their Honten, also during summer. Edamame fish cake 枝豆真薯, mizuna greens with soy sauce 水菜お浸し, and corn tofu (with a slice of braised abalone) とうもろこし豆腐 all made their repeat appearance. Even the barracuda sushi 焼カマス小袖寿司 was similar to the fish used last year (beltfish).

【御造里】Sashimi

The sashimi course is usually served at room temperature, so do not be alarmed.

Bluefin tuna, Octopus and Scabbard fish 鮪、水蛸、炙り太刀魚

The only thing interesting was the plate the sashimi came in, which is Inari pottery with a rabbit and frog drawn based on the national treasure ‘Birds and beast figures caricature’ of Kyoto Takayamaji from the 12th century. Birds and beasts are said to be auspicious due to their similar longevity and reading. 

【蓋物】Simmered dish

The simmered course or  futamono 蓋物 is the first of a series of hot courses and is traditionally served in a lidded vessel.

Grilled eel and Summer vegetables 鰻白焼きと夏野菜の炊き合わせ

Japanese believes that eating river eel in summer as it contains Vitamin A and good for tired bodies. A piece of grilled eel is added to simmered vegetable that included winter melon, carrots and lotus roots. Nothing to fault for this course as it was quite delicious.

【一人ひと鍋】Main dish

The highlight of tonight’s meal, the one-person hotpot or hitori hito nabe featured kuroge wagyu 黒毛和牛 cooked in sukiyaki すき焼き style.

Kuroge wagyu sukiyaki 黒毛和牛すき焼き

The kuroge beef was steamed to the doneness rather than cooked in the sweet sukiyaki sauce. You would need to dip it into the sukiyaki just before taking out of the pot. And then enjoy it with an egg wash in the beaten raw egg to bring down the temperature and give the beef a creamy texture.

【強肴】Refreshing dish

I don’t know why they called in shiizakana 強肴 as this is not the main course. The palate cleanser was a reset of the tastebuds, a marker that the meal is going change course.

Surf clam with Tosa vinegar jelly 北寄貝土佐酢ジュレ掛け

Tosazu jure 土佐酢ジュレ is a jelly dressing for summer. A tiny amount of gelatine turns a common sunomono dressing into a shiny crystal coating that clings to the surface of ingredients. Served with pacific surf clams and tomatoes.

【御食事】Meal

Signalling that we were coming to the end of the banquet, the goshokuji course was served. 

Steamed rice with Conger eel and ginger served with Miso soup and Japanese pickles 鱧と新生姜の炊き込みご飯

Pike conger eel from Awaji Island 淡路島産の鱧 is in season during summer. And this was the main ingredient in the rice cooked with shredded ginger. There wasn’t a lot of eel in the rice. And they did not have second servings. Served with miso soup and Japanese pickles (konomono 香の物), which is customary in Japan of all rice meals.

【水菓子】Dessert

And to round up a not-so-amazing dinner, it was a quartet of equally dismal Japanese sweets and fruits.

Assorted seasonal dessert 最中アイス、 わらび餅、ガトーショコラ

The presentation looked like the four of us shared everything for the dessert. (From right) A small piece of monaka filled with vanilla ice cream 最中アイス that seemed to come from the freezer of 7-11, gateau chocolate cake ガトーショコラ sprinkled with matcha 抹茶, warabi mochi わらび餅 topped with sweetened red beans, and seasonal peaches with a single muscat grape.

This is the fourth Kitaohji I have tried in Tokyo; the first was also a Saryo 茶寮 concept that mimicked the experience of dining inside little teahouses in Akasaka; the second was the kaiseki concept at Yurakucho; then the Honten in Ginza 銀座本店. The quality of this kaiseki was disappointing, although it is very popular among companies because for its relatively low prices. I have definitely outgrown this chain restaurant.

Kitaohji Shinagawa Saryo 個室会席 北大路 品川茶寮
Japan, 〒108-0075 Tokyo, Minato City, Konan, 2 Chome−16−3, Shinagawa Grand Central Tower, Basement 1
〒108-0075 東京都港区港南2丁目16-3 品川グランドセントラルタワーB1階
Tel : +81 3-5463-1077

Visited Jul 2024