Good Eats

No Signboard @ Geylang (2026)

Friends from HK came to town and we agreed that chilli crabs were in order. There’s only a couple of choices and we unanimously settled for No Signboard Geylang.

No Signboard had humble beginnings in 1970s, when Mdm Ong Kim Hoi and her husband Choo Ah Kaw started a seafood hawker stall at Mattar Road Hawker Centre to help raise her growing family. At one point, the next generation expanded the operation with franchisee in multiple locations. Everything was brought back down to earth, and this is the one and only location left.

In the late 1970s, Singapore-style chilli crab was traditionally prepared in a spicy tomato sauce base. But Mdm Ong decided to change the mix of ingredients. First, she created her own chilli sauce. Then she chose to cook crab in white pepper sauce because she felt black pepper was too strong and overpowered the fresh taste of live crab. And that’s when No Signboard gained a loyal following that included the very young me.

Geylang was the notorious part of Singapore with its share of brothels, underground gambling dens and gangs. But with these was a very vibrant entertainment and dining ecosystem that existed to service the patrons of these shady activities. This Geylang location opened in 1981 and can sit over 40 tables, and it attracted its fair share of criticism – poor service, standard drop, etc. I grew up in the neighbourhood, and this was my favourite outlet.

Ginger and Spring Onion Deer Meat 姜葱鹿肉

A Cantonese dish that was once very popular in Singapore and typically served on a cast iron plate or sizzling plate. These days, there are more scallions and ginger than venison. The taste is primarily oyster sauce, and the meat has been tenderised in a good way. Could do with a bowl of rice.

Royal Chives Stir-fried with Minced Garlic 蒜蓉炒青龙菜

Usually I would have ordered the sambal kangkong 马来风光 – simple dish is made with a belachan sambal, minced dried shrimps and kangkong – but we wanted to try something else, something not spicy. Royal Chives 青龙菜 is a variant of the chives from Cameron Highlands and became really popular in the last decade as an alternative to yellow chives (which is green chives devoid of sunlight.) And this is something you don’t get in HK.

Crispy Baby Sotongs 脆苏东仔

My foreign guests have told me they have never seen this dish anywhere else before they tried these in No Signboard. I was pretty sure every Upper East Coast seafood restaurant had this. Baby squids are deep fried and then stir-fried with a sweet and spicy sauce and then sprinkled with sesame seeds. A great snack to start dinner as you drink beer and wait for the chilli crabs.

Stir Fried Venus Clams in Pumpkin Sauce 金瓜啦啦

Sick of the usual sautéed sambal clams, we took the recommendation of the waitress and ordered the Stir Fried Venus Clams in Pumpkin Sauce 金瓜啦啦. Innovative, but I had to say a dessert tasting sautéed clams wasn’t what we were expecting. The first miss of the evening.

Mee Goreng 马来炒面

I also order their mee goreng as I loved how old-school their style of stir-fried yellow mee tasted. It was still cooked with sweet tomato ketchup (not Heinz but Maggi), slightly spicy and spiked with pieces of seafood and tau kwa. (Now cue music) All those sweet memories came back clearly to me, it can even make me cry just like before… it’s yesterday once more.

Squid Paste Stuffed In Dough Fritters 炸苏东油条

Another old-school dish where dough fritters are stuffed with minced squid paste and then deep fried. I ordered it because I had not tried this for quite some time and wanted to get that feeling back again.

Stir-fried Crayfish with Spicy Powder 甘香虾婆

Here’s the second miss of the day, Stir-fried Crayfish with Spicy Powder 甘香虾婆. For some reasons unknown to me, kumheung 甘香 has become quite popular among the tzechar stores. It is a cheap method of concealing not-so-fresh seafood, as this crayfish was. To give them credit, the waitress that took our orders did mention that it was frozen crayfish and not the market-fresh ones.

Deep Fried Crispy Cereal Beancurd 麦香豆腐

Usually used as a style for prawns, I was surprised it worked for deep fried tofu as well. The crispy oatmeal was the source of all the flavours in the deep fried Japanese egg tofu. Thankfully it wasn’t too oily or my cardiologist and weight control specialist will go berserk.

Signature Chilli Crab 招牌辣椒螃蟹

There’s the almost century old argument on who invented the Singapore-style chilli crab. But No Signboard was a latecomer in the chilli crab game, and they didn’t have the pedigree of the Upper East Coast seafood strip as well. However the late boomer became one of the most important players that promoted this national dish across the world.

What made them stand apart from the rest of the seafood restaurants was the sauce that was not too tomatoey. It has a fragrant taste of lemongrass, curry leaves, laksa leaves and other spices that the family has guarded the recipe for three generations. It has been copied but never surpassed.

Soft white bread was often provided to mop up the sauce. The savoury deep fried mantou became a popular accompaniment to complement the rich gravy, making the meal a communal experience. Use those sweet mantou to enjoy the tangy, spicy sauce, and one serving was never enough.

White Pepper Crab 白胡椒螃蟹

While others serve black pepper crab, the white pepper crab is undisputedly No Signboard’s best crab dish that they can claim to be their own invention. Using crushed white pepper from Sarawak, the gravy clung onto the huge male Sri Lankan crab with the potent peppery taste that I have known since a kid. This is how it should be done, don’t change the recipe.

This location has been opened since 1981, and I have been patronising this place for over 40 years. The same auntie at the counter has been there since the beginning. It was one of the most expensive chilli crab in Singapore, but it didn’t matter – it was so good.

There are limited tables in the air-condition comfort of the VIP room (but there’s no extra charges) so remember to book your table early and ask for the aircon table. Limited parking on premise but they do have valet parking service. Else you have to try your luck around the different lorongs around there to look for the precious parking lot.

No Signboard Seafood @ Geylang
414 Geylang Road Singapore 389392
Tel : +65 6842 3415 

Visited May 2026

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