Arcane @ Hong Kong

During our weekend stopover in Hong Kong, Princess and I indulged in our favourite sin of gluttony, and lined up a series of untried restaurants in the former colony. First stop, Arcane.

Arcane, opened in 2014 in Central near Lan Kwai Fong, focuses on fresh and environmentally friendly modern European dishes. As its name suggests, this discreet dining room is tucked down a sidestreet, away from the bustle of the business district. Behind its unshowy façade, the space is pleasing to the eye, with its oak floor, crisp linen and David Mellor tableware.

Born and raised in Perth, Australian chef Shane Osborn had worked and lived in Sweden and London before moving to Hong Kong in 2012. Within nine years, Osborn opened his first restaurant, Arcane, which has retained its one Michelin star since the Guide’s 2018 edition, Bib Gourmand restaurant Cornerstone, and most recently, Moxie, an all-day dining venue in Landmark.

The menu for the evening consisted of an a la carte menu of seasonal and classic favourites for Michelin assessment. Meat eaters can enjoy the likes of pan-roasted wagyu rump with white asparagus (when in season), black garlic and red wine jus or lightly grilled toothfish. And there were two degustation menu – a regular one and a plant-based alternative, each with 7 courses. Unfortunately, Chef Osborn was on leave and we were served by his competent team. Not sure if we were here on other nights, there would be some amuse bouche with our a la carte orders.

We ordered a bottle of 2023 Domaine Giudicelli Patrimonio Blanc from Corsica, France to go with our choices, that mainly comprises of fish and vegetables. It is made from 100% Vermentinu (locally known as Vermentino or Rolle) and features a complex, aromatic nose showing hints of white flowers, citrus seed, lemon, and guava. On the palate, it is highly energetic, crisp, and vibrant, balanced by deep oyster-shell minerality, chalk, and a saline, maritime-influenced finish. Not too dry, very easy to drink.

Salad of beetroot and fresh cherries with smoked sardines, castelfranco and marcona almonds

Vegetables, leaves and fruits are sourced from a co-op of local farms that grow organically. Princess’ favourite fruit/vegetable is beetroot and she picked the starter of a salad of beetroot and fresh cherries. This vibrant summer salad balances sweet, earthy, and smoky flavours by pairing roasted beets and juicy fresh cherries with rich smoked sardines, bitter Castelfranco radicchio, and crunchy Marcona almonds.

Blue swimmer crab and poached murray river cod with sea asparagus, jerusalem artichoke and truffle nage

This signature course features delicate sweet blue swimmer crab and tender poached Murray River cod, paired with earthy Jerusalem artichoke, crisp sea asparagus, and a rich truffle nage. A truffle nage is a light, aromatic French broth infused with fresh truffles, white wine, and herbs, used to poach or serve delicate foods like seafood. The cod was almost rare, served with dollops of crab and Jerusalem artichoke cream,

Pan roasted mayura wagyu rump cap 7+ with grelot onion, sesame crusted aubergine, girolle, black garlic and red wine jus

Premium full-blood Wagyu beef from Mayura Station in South Australia, with a marble score of 7+ provided a rich, buttery flavour served with a deeply savoury, umami-rich sauce made from fermented black garlic blended with a classic reduced red wine glaze. Delicate, trumpet-shaped wild chanterelle mushrooms with a subtle peppery and fruity aroma (total of four pieces) made a rare, impactful appearance. Small, sweet French spring onions roasted tender and eggplant coated in seeds and cooked for a nutty crunch and soft interior completed the plate. This cut of beef was a letdown given the rest of the plate was perfect.

Lightly grilled toothfish with japanese leeks, espelette rouille, bell pepper and fresh herb sauce vierge

This refined seafood dish pairs rich, buttery Patagonian toothfish (aka Chilean sea bass) with sweet charred leeks, smoky pepper rouille, and a bright, acidic herb sauce. A warm, garlicky mayonnaise-style emulsion spiced with Basque Espelette pepper for a gentle, smoky kick accompanied a potpourri of caramelised negi (Japanese leeks), bell peppers and sun-dried tomatoes. A classic French virgin sauce of extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, diced tomatoes, bell peppers, and fresh chopped herbs, provided a vibrant, acidic contrast to the rich fish. The buttery texture of the tooth fish was not prominent, making one wondered the freshness of the fish.

Sautéed potato gnocchi with shiitake and celeriac ragout, parmesan and fresh black truffle

This gnocchi was provided gratis by the chef. The gnocchi was topped with generous shavings of black truffle, which brought out the high-end French cuisine served here.Very rich parmesan cream sauce with a celeriac and shiitake mushrooms ragout hid under the truffle toppings. Very satisfying, even though I wasn’t a gnocchi fan. Princess wanted to try this but went with beef. So it was very well-received by her.

Aiwen mango with passionfruit, coconut sorbet, crystallised macadamia and fresh mint

Aiwen mango, aka the Irwin or apple mango, features vibrant red skin, fiberless buttery flesh, and a sweet honeyed flavour. It was in season, and you can get it everywhere when we were in Tainan just a few days ago.

Coconut appeared as a sorbet as well as one of the flavour of the gelatine film covering the secrets underneath. Tiny mint leaves dotted the plate surrounded with passionfruit foam. Nice balance of sweet and tartness, but I would say there was too little mango.

Cherry mousse with crème fraiche ice cream, amaretto sorbet, cacao nibs, almonds, verbena and mixed berries consommé

This elegant plated dessert balanced sweet and tart fruit flavours with rich dairy and nutty notes, featuring a velvety cherry mousse, tangy crème fraîche ice cream, and punchy amaretto sorbet, all tied together with fresh berry liquids and aromatic herbs. 

Canelés are known to be one of the hardest French pastries to master, and till this day I am not sure what a perfect canelé should taste like. These yuzu-flavoured canelés came as petit fours as we settled the bill. The crust (made from edible beeswax) was the hardest I have eaten so far. The filling was custardy with a nice yuzu fragrance. Princess loved it, me not so much.

Having pampered by other restaurants with complimentary amuse bouche (little bites) and bread choices, I was disappointed by the lack of breadth with the menu and the entire dining experience. I asked if it was normal (btw, it was), then I got a surprised complimentary gnocchi with our main courses. Service was immaculate (two at the front of the restaurant serving three tables), and that perhaps was the saving grace. A slow evening, which we were glad to get over with.

Arcane
3F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR China

Visited Jul 2026

Michelin Hong Kong Guide 1 Star 2018-2026