Yatagarasu やたがらす@ Nara

A fantastic chicken restaurant featuring fresh, morning-caught chicken called Yamato Nikudori, local chicken from Nara Prefecture

Nara is famous for poultry and Yatagarasu やたがらす specialises in several kinds of free-range chicken dishes featuring fresh, morning-caught chicken. Yatagarasu 八咫烏 as a crow-god is a symbol specifically of guidance. This great crow was sent from heaven by Takamimusubi as a guide for legendary Emperor Jimmu.

Smoke is a fickle mistress — flames can be unpredictable, untameable, but can also impart an unrivalled flavour to the ingredients. Yatagarasu is one of the few gems that punches at the same weight class in the art of cooking with smoke. As with most yakitori-ya, it’s paramount to get a seat at the counter to get front-row seats as the magic on Yatagarasu’s grill unfolds right before your eyes.

Yatagarasu utilises every part of the chicken, nose to tail. And not just that, they serve local free-range chicken from Nara. 大和肉鶏 Yamato Nikudori chickens are jidori (domestic free-range chicken). After being raised longer than ordinary chickens, Yamato Nikudori poultry has a reddish, lean flesh containing the ideal amount of fat. As you chew the firm flesh, the “umami” savoury flavour will unfold across your palette. Yamato Nikudori chicken is also rich in imidazole peptide which is known for reducing fatigue.

After you sit down, the customary otoshi is placed in front of you.

And for drinks, you can order a tasting trio of local craft beers, which was great for me as I would like to try a variety and yet not wanting to get tipsy.

大和刺身四種 Four Types of Yamato Chicken Sashimi

Only in Japan dare I eat my chicken raw. The chicken sashimi came with four different parts of the Yamato chicken – (L-R) thigh, liver, gizzard and heart. They provided a variety of dipping options like yuzu vinegar, salt, ponzu, ginger, and soy sauce, explaining which pairings worked best, making it delicious. Not for the faint hearted, but if you overcome the initial squeamish, you will be treated to deliciousness and texture that would not come from the cooked chicken. Anywhere you can find great yakitori, you’ll be able to find high-quality torisashi, so it’s worth a try if you’re in the country.

焼鳥盛り合わせ Assortment of Yakitori

The yakitori liver with tare (sweet and savoury sauce) and gizzard with salt had a nice chew and were delicious. I tried something I normally wouldn’t, tsukune (chicken meatball) with cheese and I realised why I didn’t order it as often.

Yatagarasu’s approach to chicken skewers is artful but yakitori is a style of cooking that instinctively demands the rich, fatty bits of the chicken exposed to maximum Maillard reaction that results in browning and the development of complex flavours and aromas that can only come from binchotan.

万願寺ししとう炙り焼 Grilled Manganji Peppers

Manganji and shishito peppers are both Japanese chilli peppers known for their mild flavour. 万願寺 唐辛子 Manganji peppers are generally larger, thicker-walled, and can be slightly sweeter than 獅子唐 shishitos, sometimes with a touch of heat. Since Nara is so near to Kyoto, this is de facto toragashi served.

大和肉鶏白子ポンズ Yamato Chicken Milt with Ponzu Sauce

Another appetiser not for the squeamish. 白子 Shirako usually refers to fish milt (sperm), but Yamato chicken testicle is also referred to as shirako and eaten as an appetiser. Chicken testicles are a delicacy, known for their unique texture and creamy, sometimes popping, flavour. 

大和手羽セット Yamato Chicken Wings Set

Do you know that the wings of the hen and the cock taste different? The chicken wings set was supposed to let you put them to the taste test. Not prize for guessing right which one is the hen and which one is the cock.

I was already impressed by the rich flavour and texture of Yamato chicken. Cock meat had a stronger, more intense flavour and a tougher texture compared to hen meat, especially as the cock ages. This difference is more noticeable in older cocks, whose meat can be darker and stringier, resembling turkey leg meat more than chicken. 

やり軟骨唐揚げ Chicken Cartilage Karaage

Japanese izakaya classic 軟骨唐揚げ nancoto karaage is made by deep-frying chicken cartilage. It’s like chicken karaage, but with cartilage. なんこつ Nankotsu is the cartilage taken from the keel bone between the chicken breasts. Nankotsu has very little meat attached, but the cartilage has a crunchy texture and contains lots of collagen.

ホルモン炙り焼き Grilled Offals (Horumon)

ホルモン Horumon, a staple of Japanese cuisine, offers a flavourful journey into the world of the insides of beef or pig and offal. Originating in the Kansai region nearly a century ago, locals often served this in specialty barbecue restaurants. The term “horumon” comes from the Kansai dialect, derived from the word “hormone,” but it is also a play on words, as “horumon” in Japanese can mean “discarded goods.” Offal is rich in essential nutrients such as iron, zinc, vitamin B12, and protein. However, it is also important to consume this in moderation, as some types of offal can be high in cholesterol and fat. 

I had heard that popular restaurants in Nara require reservations, but since I wasn’t sure when my plans would finish, I couldn’t make one. It was pure luck that I got a place at the counter! Reservation is a must as it gets very popular with locals, and if you come too late all the best and rare parts of the chicken will be gone.

Yatagarasu やたがらす
13-1 Hayashikojicho, Nara 奈良市林小路町13-1
Tel : +81 (0)742-20-0808 (Reservations)

Visited May 2025