Yakitori has been gaining prominence as the next fine dining concept, modernised with wine pairing and delicious sauces. This is one of those that have departed from the traditional izakaya style yakitoriya.

Yakitori & Wine Moto is a 3-minute walk from Roppongi Crossing, and its clean, white facade stands out from its surroundings. The foundations of the restaurant’s unique concept are in its boundless respect for the traditional Japanese dish of yakitori. The restaurant expands on the concept by implementing fermentation, another Japanese culinary tradition. By focusing on more than the chicken itself, it is creating its own new style of yakitori.

Yuta Hasebe, the chef at “Yakitori & Wine Moto”, has over 10 years of experience cooking Italian at the likes of Le Acacie. He has implemented fermentation techniques and an Italian flair into Moto’s entrees, appetisers, and sauces. He selects chicken like a sushi chef selects fish, picking the best breeds at the best times and preparing each piece of meat in the way most suited to its unique characteristics.

The Wine Collection

The stars of the show are the natural wine. Carefully selected from across the globe, they are well known for being easier on the body, but more importantly at Moto, they play an integral role in the dining experience.

These wine, two chardonnays, a pinot noir, a chianti and a shiraz, were recommended to go with our yakitori omakase tonight.

地鶏スープ Chicken Soup, 発酵総菜 Seasonal Fermented Side Dishes

Moto 源 garnered popularity for its new take on yakitori culture that focuses on fermented food and natural wine, in addition to skewered chicken. Six different fermented food were presented and provided exquisite accents that connected the yakitori and wine.

Sasami ささみ Chicken Breast Fillet

The traditional start to yakitori, the chicken breast was grilled ever so slightly. Japan is the only place I would eat raw chicken, and sasami is usually served rather pink.

Negima ねぎま Chicken thigh with leek

This negima is made with Matsukaze jidori 松風地鶏 which has chewy texture and sweet rich juices. The fat of chicken thigh and refreshing leeks went well together. Chef artfully selects chicken from all corners of Japan, from sources including breeds like Akita’s Hinai Jidori , Ibaraki’s Kasumi Jidori , Kyoto’s Kyobeni Jidori and Aichi’s Kinsodori, in order to allow diners to enjoy the distinct flavours each different chicken has to offer.

The first pairing of the evening was an organic white burgundy. 2022 La Soeur Cadette Bourgogne blanc AOC combines lemony notes and a sweet scent of vine flower. This is a fleshy and mineral wine that favours the delicacy and pure simplicity of Chardonnay.

Ginnan 銀杏 Ginkgo nuts

An intermission between the chickens, a grilled skewer of ginkgo nuts simply salted.

Momo もも Chicken thigh

The meat for もも chicken thigh, together with せせりneck, 砂肝 gizzard and レバー liver, all came from 比内地鶏 Hinai jidori. It is a chicken that is bred in the Hinai region in northern Akita known for its good taste. It came from the endangered and protected Hinai cock crossed bred with the Rhode Island Red hen. Hinai Jidori is highly praised abroad, and is used in Italian and French cuisine. It is one of the many ingredients that is the pride of Japan.

2021 Evening Land Seven Springs Chardonnay from Oregon has aromas and flavours of ripe yellow and green apples, white flowers, lemon zest jump out of the glass. Hints of baking spice and a creamy mouthfeel round out the palate.

Tebasaki gyoza 手羽先餃子 Chicken wing “gyoza”

The birthplace of the 手羽先餃子 chicken wing gyoza is 宮崎県 Miyazaki Prefecture. The bones in the mid wing are removed and the cavity is stuffed with other ingredients, a din this case, the chicken meat from the drumlet. So technically you are eating the entire 3-joint chicken wings in its entirety.

Bonjiri ぼんじり Bishop’s Nose

My favourite part of the chicken, bonjiri is not the ass but the triangular fleshy protuberance visible at the posterior end of a bird. It’s fatty and when grilled the skin became crispy like deep fried. The fats rendered and what’s left tasted like foie gras.

椎茸のチーズリゾット詰 Shiitake mushroom stuffed with cheese risotto

A nod to the Italian roots of the chef’s training, the shiitake mushroom cap was stuffed with a cheese risotto cooked with a beautiful chicken stock. The whole thing was grilled and coated with tare. Very delicious bite.

ズッキーニ Zucchini

Something light to cleanse the palate before the next repertoire of yakitori. Zucchini grilled with olive oil, salt and pepper.

2022 Brood Fermentation ‘Sedure’ Pinot Noir is 100% Pinot Noir made in a light, super-expressive, black-forest-gateaux style reminiscent of the great Austrian reds. Sour plum, cola, red candy, tobacco and cacao with electric, wild acidity throughout.

Seseri せせり Chicken neck

This is not a rare part, but this is a difficult part to extract and do well. Seseri is the meat from the neck of the chicken and usually it comes with the skin. I wondered how did they manage to extract so much meat from the neck.

Tsukune 燻製つくね Smoked Chicken Meatball

The tsukune was grilled and then smoked in a tiny bottle with rosemary fume. This Western technique imparted a nice smokey fragrance on the traditional tare-coated chicken meatball.

Liba レバー Liver

The test for all the yakitori-ya; to get the liver right, you need perfect timing and control of the fire.

Hatsu ハツ Chicken heart

Another test of the skill of the chef, the chicken heart needs the utmost attention before it becomes chewy.

カリフラワー Cauliflower

Here’s another idea for my next BBQ at home, grilled cauliflower. Simple yet elegantly delicious – the secret is in the flavoured salt used.

2019 Podere Luisa “Giunò” Chianti Riserva DOCG is an organic chianti from vineyards in Montevarchi, near Arezzo, Tuscany. Fruity bouquet of small red fruit and red flowers. Balanced with pleasant acidity. 

Sunagimo 砂肝 Chicken gizzard

As for the gizzard, not only the control of the fire, the selection and preparation are crucial to get the crunchy, clean flavour. Gizzard and liver are the hardest to perfect and many yakitoriya failed because of these two.

The only non-organic wine tonight, 2019 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Rhone has aroma of spices and mature red fruits. On the palate round tannins with powerful complexity. A rich unctuous wine with notes of mature plums, hazelnuts and red fruits. Very rich wine full of harmony and balance.

Oyakuzosui 親子雑炊 Special Chicken Risotto

An Italian-influenced play on the oyakudon, the chicken risotto came with a quail egg, grilled chicken and a risotto cooked with chicken egg.

Onigiri おにぎり Rice ball

I always end my yakitori journey with the onigiri grilled with shoyu (soy sauce). The crust was crunchy with the smokiness that can only come from burnt rice.

Seasonal dessert – ほうじ茶のプリン Hojicha pudding

And unlike most yakitoriya, Mono has a proper sweet ending to the meal. The seasonal dessert was ほうじ茶のプリン Hojicha pudding with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup).

The dessert reminded me of the matcha warabi mochi (bracken mochi) eaten at Japanese festivals. A festive end to an excellent dinner.

Not recommended for large group as the biggest table they had can only accommodate 6 persons. We had 10, and they cannot combine the tables for us, and we had to split to two groups. Other than that small logistical problem, an excellent meal. Each dish was unique and was both beautiful and delicious. There was a good mixture of yakitori and other small dishes that helped keep the meal interesting and exciting throughout. The restaurant also has an interesting selection of wines. I would recommend this for a finer yet traditional yakitori experience.

Yakitori & Wine Moto 焼き鳥とワイン 源
3-8-7, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel : +81 03-3475-6333

Visited Nov 2023

@yakitori_moto_official