Travels

Changsha Part 1: Yuelu Mountain 嶽麓山

This is the most popular park in Changsha. It is quite big and is the site of a thousand year old academy that is famous in Chinese history.

When you reach the foot of the mountain, you come to a large visitor gate that is the public car park. You can take a shuttle bus to the top of the mountain and walk down.

Yuelu Mountain 嶽麓山

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View from the top of Yuelu Hill, looking at Orange Island and Changsha city

Mount Yuelu is located on the west bank of the Xiang River in Changsha, Hunan. Its main peak and the highest point, Yunlu Peak, is about 300.8-metre (987 ft) above the sea level.

Changsha Campaigns Monument 長沙會戰碑

The monument was built to commemorate the success of the Sep 1939 First Battle of Changsha against the Japanese. It was set up in Jul 1941, when the 9th War Zone had defeated the Japanese invasions of Changsha three times consecutively. Then in 19 Jun 1944, they lost to the Japanese and surrendered the city to the Japanese.

As you walk down the mountain you will come to a cave that once served as the Command Post of the 9th War Zone, led by Commander Xue Yue 薛岳. He was regarded as the “China’s Patton” after the legendary General Patton. He led his commands to many victories, including the first three campaigns of Changsha. He was moved to another command later. He retreated to Taiwan with the Nationalist Government of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-Shek and never returned to the mainland.

Clear Breeze Spring 清風泉 is one of numerous natural springs that can be found on Mt Yuelu.

Yunlu Palace (Taoist) 雲麓宮

Yunlu Palace is a Taoist temple located on the south side of Yuelu Mountain, in Yuelu District of Changsha, Hunan, China. It was originally built in 1478, but because of war has been rebuilt numerous times since then, with the last major one done in 1976.

雲麓宮是一個道觀,該建築地處岳麓山第二峰雲麓峰,又名靈麓峰,為道教七十二福地之二十三洞真虛福地。中华人民共和国成立后云麓宫于1957年重修。1966年文革期间云麓宫遭到严重破坏。1976年修葺临倒塌的关帝殿时,在原址上建长方形两层楼阁,东向城廓,供游人登临览胜。現存道宮房屋600平方米,長沙市道教協會設此。

Lushan Temple (Buddhist) 麓山寺

Lushan Temple was originally built during the Western Jin Dynasty era about 1,700 year ago. It was thought of as one of the most sacred temples of Hunan.

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麓山寺門為牌樓式,正中之上鐫「古麓山寺」四字,門樓兩側鐫著名的楹聯「漢魏最初名勝,湖湘第一道場」,準確地概括了麓山寺的歷史地位。入麓山寺大門後可見放生池,前進為彌勒殿,佛台上供彌勒佛像。彌勒殿左有鐘樓,右為鼓樓。中進為大雄寶殿,即正殿,面闊七間,進深六間,重檐歇頂,殿內佛台供奉釋迦牟尼佛三身佛像,莊重至極,殿左是五觀堂和客堂,殿右是講經堂。後進為觀音閣,又叫藏經閣,閣前坪有兩株羅漢松,稱「六朝松」。兩樹對立,虯枝交錯,宛若關隘,稱「松關」。閣右下方有一井,名龍泉。1986年修復了大部分殿堂,殿內佛像莊嚴慈祥,千手觀音前每天有不少信徒頂禮膜拜。所珍藏的佛經和古籍極為豐富,石刻的閻立本、吳道子、牧溪、仇英等作的觀音寶像,貫休的十六應真,湘繡懷素草書《自敘貼》等均為珍品。

Lushan Temple is located on the side of the mountain. It was built in A.D.268 and later destroyed and rebuilt several times, most recent being during the Japanese invasion in 1944. It was last rebuilt in 1985 by the Buddhist Association of Changsha, and expanded between 1997 to 2002 under the supervision fo the current abbot Venerable Sheng Hui.

麓山寺自晉代創建以來,經過隋唐的發展,宋元的延續,至明代中期已成為全國佛教禪宗派著名的勝地,為彰揚麓山寺的功績,明神宗特賜名「萬壽禪寺」。明末,禪寺毀於兵燹,後於清康熙年間又重新修復,但規模遠小於前。1944年再毀於日軍戰火,僅存山門及觀音閣、虎岑堂。1985年由長沙市佛教協會主持恢復原貌,重修了大雄寶殿、彌勒殿、客堂、禪堂,古剎初具規模。自1994年聖輝法師駐錫後,麓山古寺發生了巨大變化。於1997年至2002年間,先後修建了住持樓、藏經樓、五觀堂、後山門、講經堂、素茗齋、湖南佛學院教學樓、圖書館、法師樓、僧寮等,寺院格局得到進一步完善。寺內僧眾濟濟;塑像齊備,藏書豐富,佛教叢林制度得到了全面恢復。殿.堂掩映在層林疊翠之間,晨鐘暮鼓,梵音悠揚。參觀拜佛者絡繹不絕,一派祥和、寧靜的景象。

In front of the Guanyin Hall, there’s a sacred fig 菩提樹 that has seen the fortunes of the temple over six dynasties.

麓山寺是中國佛教史上著名的道場之一。自晉以後,歷經法崇、法導、法愍、摩訶衍那、智謙等高僧住持,佛事日弘。唐時,盛極一時,寺院規模宏大,氣勢磅礡,殿堂華麗,蔚成大觀,文人雅士競相攜游,或賦詩,或作文。詩聖杜甫有「寺門高開洞庭野,殿腳插入赤沙湖」之吟詠,劉禹錫亦有「高殿呀然壓蒼嗽,俯瞰長沙疑欲吞」之驚嘆。唐大書法家李邕撰書《麓山寺碑》以紀其勝。因其文章、書法、刻工俱為上乘,世稱「三絕碑」。

Autumn-admiring Pavilion 愛晚亭

Autumn-admiring Pavilion 愛晚亭
Autumn-admiring Pavilion 愛晚亭

The Autumn-admiring Pavilion is regard as one of the four famous pavilions of China, the other three being Hangzhou’s Mid Lake Pavilion, Beijing’s Leisure Pavilion and Chuzhou Anhui’s Drunkard Pavilion. The original pavilion was built in 1792 by Luo Dian, Principal of Yuelu Academy. Firstly, it was named the “Crimson Maple Pavilion“. It was later renamed to Autumn-admiring Pavilion by the scholar Bi Hang. The original pavilion was destroyed by invading Japanese soldiers during the Sino-Japanese war.

清風峽裡有個愛晚亭,同安徽省醉翁亭、杭州市湖心亭、北京市陶然亭並稱「中國四大名亭」。愛晚亭始建於乾隆五十七年(1792年),原名紅葉亭、又名愛楓亭,是岳麓書院山長(即院長)羅典創建。羅典的《次石琢堂學使留題書院詩韻兩首即以送別》詩後有一條自注:「山中紅葉甚盛,山麓有亭,畢秋帆制軍名曰愛晚紀以詩」,說明了畢沆是把亭子命名為「愛晚亭」的。毛澤東青年時期,曾在此進行革命活動。抗日戰爭時期,亭被日軍炸毀。

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Mao’s poem carved into a plaque《沁園春·長沙》的橫匾

It was rebuilt in 1952 and the red plaque with the cursive calligraphy of the name was written by Mao. Inside the pavilion is a plaque with Mao’s poem.

今天「愛晚亭」的匾額為毛澤東在1952年重建亭時題寫,亭內有詩詞《沁園春·長沙》的橫匾。

Date Visited : Feb 2014

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