National Museum of Mongolia – Traditional Clothings and Jewellery

The Mongolian ethnic group was formed in the 13th century and now consists of 2 nationalities and more than 20 ethnic groups. Mongolian clothes and ornaments from the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century were displayed in this hall.

Hall 3 of the National Museum of Mongolia is like an invisible floor between the ground floor where the artefacts from prehistoric Mongolia and Ancient Kingdoms are displayed, and the second floor where Mongolian Empire and the rest of Mongolian history are on display. It is along this “corridor of history” (excuse the pun) the traditional clothings and jewellery of all the ethnic groups of Mongolia are on parade.

These are state ceremonial clothes, men’s and women’s clothes of ethnic groups, seasonal clothes and ornaments. At the beginning of the hall, there is a picture board copied from historical photographs of the past two centuries, as well as archeological findings, illustrations of books and scriptures related to the history of Mongolian clothing.

Mongolian Costumes

Mongolian clothing originated and evolved from the ancient Xiongnu Empire. Traditional Mongolian clothing reflects both the origin of the Mongols and the various influences of outside groups. Most Mongolians wear a deel with buttons on the right and a high collar, the latter being an influence from the Qing dynasty.

Mongolian deel styles have been subdivided into three centuries:

1. 12th-14th (Mongol Empire)
2. 15th-17th (Norther Yuan)
3. 17th-20th (Qing Dynasty)

Silk Deel

Silk fabric, cashmere, silk threads. Current size: 115×208 cm | End of 12th century to beginning of 14th century, Mongol Empire | Dugur Tsakhir rock. Bayantsagaan county, Bayankhongor province

The silk deel was discovered at the burial site at Dugul Tsakhir rock. It was found alongside the remains of a 10-15 year old boy dating back to the 12th-14th century. The deel is made of yellow silk with flower and leaf patterns, and has a red fabric lining with cashmere insulation. It features a long hem and was likely worn during cold seasons. The top section of the deel slants across the chest; the lower portion is rather loose. Traditionally deels had long sleeves ending in wide cuffs.

Dearest Child’s Deel and Ornaments

Silk, leather, silver, bronze | 19th-20th century | Tserendolgor, Oktyabrsky District

This was a distinct clothing for “the dearest child” энхрий хуухдийн – a clothing that was believed to protect the child but also to let everybody know that this child was extra treasured because of his or her vulnerability.

Children have always been valued and treasured in Mongolian society. The harsh living conditions among the largely nomadic people have historically caused high mortality rates among children and caused the societies to center highly around catering to children’s needs. Particularly vulnerable children like those with disabilities were often given extra attention and protection.

Dearest Child’s Ornaments

Silk, leather, silver, bronze | 19th-20th century | Tserendolgor, Oktyabrsky District

Mongolian Vest

Silk, cotton | 19th-20th century | National Museum of Mongolia

Children’s Game “Naadgai”

Wood, brass, tin | 19th-20th century | B.Banzrag, Bulgan sum, Dorod aimag

Child and Baby Boots

Leather, felt, cotton | 20th century | Mönkhkhairkhan sum, Khovd aimag

Ceremonial Costume For A State Official

Between 17th-20th centuries Mongolian nobilities had state ranks such as “Khan”, “van”‘, “beil”, “beis”, “gun” and “taiji”. Their costumes were regulated as a State law.

State Ceremonial Costume

Nobilities costumes were consist hat, del, jacket and boots. On the top of the hat has button of rank with a precious stone or coral and 1-3 peacock feather is attached in their hats. They used to wear del (Mongol gown), dragon patterned with 4-5 nails brocade. Also they wore a short outer jacket with a “Pus”.

During Qing Dynasty, Mongolian nobilities used to wear outer jacket with a “Pus” embroidered a snake or dragon on it. But Bogd Khan’s period, short outer jacket with “square pus” embroidered “Soyombo” script in back chest and shoulders. As well, the words “sun and moon” were embroidered with golden thread by Soyombo script.

Aristocratic Ceremonial Costumes

Silk, felt, fur | 12th-14th century | National Museum of Mongolia

During the Mongolian Empire, aristocratic people wore ceremonial costumes that varied according to wealth, status and gender. These differences included the design, colour, cut, and elaborateness of the outfit.

Typically, the aristocratic deel overlapped in front to fasten under the arm creating a slanting collar and skirt with ruffles and a slit on the left side. The deel was fastened either with straps on the right side, or with a belt sewn on to the waist section. The materials used to create these costumes included silk, brocade, cotton, and furs, and varied according to status and wealth.

Men wore leather boots, and hats with rounded tops adorned with precious stones, gold and silver.

The woman’s deel had a long skirt and wide sleeves with tight wristbands. Women also wore hats called “Bogtog” that reached 20-30cm high, were decorated by gold, silver and pearls, and were topped with feathers.

Ethnic Variations

There are over 20 ethnic groups in Mongolia. Each group has its own traditional clothing and ornaments, reflecting their culture and traditions. Mongolian clothing and jewellery reflect the natural environment, history and customs of the groups, as well as the racial relationships, age, and gender of the person wearing them.

Torguud

This ethnic group was one of the main tribes of the Four Oirats 四衛拉特, which came from the old Oirats tribe 瓦剌. The Torguuds live in Bulgan sum of Khod almag on the border of China’s Xinjiang region. They represent 0.5% (15596 residents in 2020) of total population of Mongolia.

Dörvöd

The Dörvöd is one of the ancient ethnic groups of Mongolia. They live in Bökhmörön, Davst, Ölgii, Ömnögobi, Sagil, Turgen, Khovd, Zavkhan and Naranbulag sums of Uvs aimag, Nogoonnuur sum of Bayan-Ölgii aimag and Dörgön sum of Khovd aimag. They represent 2.6% (83,719 residents in 2020) of the total population of Mongolia.

Myangad

This ethnic group is of mixed Mongol and Turkish origin and today the Myangads live mainly in Myangad sum of Khovd aimag. They represent 0.2% (8125 residents in 2020) of the total population of Mongolia.

Barga

The Barga is one of the ancient tribes of Mongolia. They live in Gurvanzagal and Khölönbuir sums of Dornod aimag, Sergelen sum of Töv aimag and in Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region in China, where their territory was once called Barga. They represent 0.1% (2832 residents in 2020) of the total population of Mongolia.

Kazak

The Kazaks are a Turkish ethnic group. The Kazaks moved to Mongolia from over the Altai Mountains in the 19th century and were officially accepted as Mongolian citizens in 1917. They live in almost all sums of Bayan-Ölgii aimag and several sums of Khovd aimag, Selenge aimag and Nalaikh district. They represent 3.8% (120999 residents in 2020) of the population of Mongolia.

Ethnic Jewellery

Although the Mongols live as nomadic pastoralists, they have inherited jewellery craftsmanship from their ancestors known for their exquisite and deep forms.

Silver Bracelet

Since eary times Mongolian bracelets which are decorated with silver, copper, brass, jade stone and enamel. A bracelet can he made of only silver with or without a pattern. They also wore Chinese style bracelets which are enameled and have a flower pattern.

Combs

Silver, pearl and plastic | Early 20th century

Plait Ornaments

Snuff Bottles

The exchange of snuff-bottles was one of the most important gestures of traditional welcome.

The top of the Mongolian snuff-bottle plays an important role in determining its value. As people used to make its head from coral. Snuff-bottles were made of precious materials such as chalcedony, jade, jasper, agate, turquoise, rock crystal, topaz, ebony, porcelain, or rare wood.

There was a time when the snuff bottle was a main accessory of political figures, rich men and priests, but today it expresses the rank of businessmen and politicians.

Tobacco-Pipe, Tobacco Pouch, Pipe Cleaners

Mongolians smoke tobacco pipe apart from snuff. White jades’ mouthpiece, bamboos middle part silver to ring, bowl of the pipe decorative iron and brass.

Generally the pipes were made of silver, iron, brass, jade, jadeite sometimes had inlaid stones. The snuff bottle pouches were made of silk, with beautiful embroidered or appliqued designs. Pipe cleaners were made of silver and other metals.

Knife and Flint

Ivory, silver | Early 20th century

The early Mongolian knife was a simple tool, without undue decoration. For its manufacture, craftsmen have long been able to use steel, silver, sandalwood and mahogany, bone, skin and corals. The handle of the knife and the scabbard are traditionally decorated with carving and embossing, chasing and engraving, some have gemstones. These ornaments are not only picturesque, but also unique in that they contain a variety of ornaments and symbols associated with the symbolism and worship of the blacksmith and all Mongolians.

The knife is worn on the belt, which is an indispensable accessory and decoration for a man. The Mongolian traditional knife (khet khutga) consists of a knife, a knife sheath, chopsticks, a chain, a hook, a forged set for kindling a fire (khet). There is an opinion that chopsticks came from China, after close contact with the Han people in the Mongol era.

Chopsticks firmly entered the life of nomads, so scabbards began to be made with special cylindrical recesses. Chopsticks slide next to the knife. The khet knife is made of stainless or Damascus steel and is usually decorated with iron or silver designs such as nets, spirals, butterflies, fish, fire, swastikas, dragons and spikes. The handle of the traditional Mongolian knife is mainly made of wood, cork and bone.

Khet is a hand-forged traditional fire starter kit that is easy to carry around, usually can be hanged from sash of deel with knife. The khet has a small pocket with flint stone and cotton fabric. It is also adorned with patterns of iron, silver and pearls. The knife is tied to his back with a sash and hung at the entrance to the yurt. There are many legends about men’s jewelry.

The trousse (eating set), consists of a knife and a pair of ivory chopsticks held in a silver-mounted wooden sheath decorated with elaborate floral scrolls. The sheath is connected via a silver chain decorated with further elaborate scrolls to a leather belt hanging. The leather flint pocket is mounted with silver and brass decorated with makara, scrolls, and inlaid with turquoise and malachite. The flint pocket with a metal stand.

About National Museum of Mongolia

National Museum of Mongolia is an ideal place for those who are eager to discover the origins of Mongolian history, culture and tradition. It showcases over 6,000 pieces artefacts dated from pre-historic time to present-day Mongolia. 

History of the Museum

In 2008, the National Museum of Mongolian History was elevated to the status of the National Museum of Mongolia. The present building was built in 1971, originally as the Museum of Revolution.

List of Exhibits

The museum consists of three storeys and 9 permanent and 1 temporary exhibition halls.

• First hall: Ancient Mongolia
• Second Hall: Xiongnu Empire and Ancient Kingdoms
• Third Hall: Traditional Clothing and Ornaments
• Fourth Hall: Mongolian Empire
• Fifth Hall: Traditional Culture
• Sixth Hall: Traditional Farming
• Seventh Hall: 17th-early 20th century
• Eighth Hall: Socialist Mongolia
• Ninth Hall: Democratic Mongolia

Opening Hours

• Summer (15 May – 15 Sep) 7.00am – 9.00pm
• Winter (16 Sep – 15 May) 9:00am – 6.00pm
• Closed on Mondays

Visited May 2023